Heavy Rotations
Heavy Rotations is the sommelier selected club to really deep dive and explore the vast world of wine
Archived Selections
2017
Gran Moraine Chardonnay
YAMHILL-CARLTON, WILLAMETTE VALLEY
Chateau Belgrave
Chateau Belgrave 2009, Located in the northern Willamette Valley, Yamhill-Carlton consists of ancient marine sedimentary-based soils, Mediterranean weather patterns and neatly combed benchlands. Gran Moraine embodies the confluence of these elements, creating a perfect setting to craft classic Burgundian varieties - Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
Oregon Wine Country, an extraordinary place sculpted by the floods of the last ice age, is a series of valleys much like Burgundy.
Gran Moraine takes its name from cataclysmic floods that occurred in the northern Willamette Valley of Oregon during the last ice age. As the glaciers receded they released a torrent of water from the once giant Lake Missoula. These famous Missoula Floods traveled across the Columbia basin helping to carve out the Columbia Gorge.
The Willamette Valley became an extremely large temporary lake and was left with huge deposits of silt as well as giant boulders with origins in current British Columbia and Idaho. These are known by geologists as erratic rocks. These erratic rock outcroppings boldly manifest themselves throughout our vineyard. They were once part of the giant glacial dam’s moraine – what we refer to as the "Gran Moraine."
2017
Au Bon Climat Pinot Noir “Runway Vineyard”
SANTA MARIA VALLEY, SANTA BARBARA
Runway Vineyard
This wine of amazing fruit and depth, is from a relatively new vineyard that earned its wings at ABC with the 2013 vintage, the first Runway designated bottling of its own. It has been a success ever since.
Runway Vineyard planted 16 acres of vines in 2008 on a 1,000 acre parcel. It is located about a mile from our winery, essentially next door to Bien Nacido Vineyards. We have watched their development from the beginning. After all, we are very “nosy” neighbors. The vineyard is owned by the 47th lieutenant Governor of California Abel Maldonado. Abel has been doing his own farming for a few years and he knows what is best for his vineyard.
Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir characteristically has a very fragrant, cranberry, rose petal aroma, and firm structure. The fruit from Runway provides that, yet is richer, darker and more intense. We are now making Runway Vineyard Pinot Noir a large part of our single vineyard Pinot program. The soil there is sandy so once the weather warms in the summer, the grapes ripen quickly. Due to our proximity, we can pick the grapes “just right”.
As with all of our single vineyard Pinots, the wine gets all the TLC needed to ensure optimum quality. It was barrel aged for almost 24 months in François Frères barrels, about 30% new oak.
2015
La Rioja Alta "Vina Ardanza" Reserva
RIOJA, SPAIN
Rioja
Always evolving quality, elegance, innovation, evolution... These are the pillars on which the five founding families erected our winery in 1890 and built a way of living, feeling and producing wines of the highest quality that continue to evolve subtly, perfectly adapting to new tastes. This is how the permanent pursuit of excellence started; a pursuit that continues into the 21st century with identical enthusiasm. We draw the best from our winemaking tradition and wisdom —our own cooperage, manual racking, long ageing periods, etc.— and combine it with the most modern winemaking technology. Today, our wines are an international exemplar of the great wines of Rioja and our brands are present in the best restaurants across all continents.
Rioja wines are typically a blend of fruit from its three sub-regions: Rioja Alta, Rioja Alavesa and Rioja Oriental, although specific sub-region (zonas), village (municipios) and vineyard (viñedo singular) wines can now be labeled. Rioja Alta and Alavesa, at the highest elevations, are considered to be the source of the brightest, most elegant fruit, while grapes from the warmer and drier, Rioja Oriental, produce wines with deep color, great body and richness.
2009
Chateau Belgrave
HAUT MEDOC GRAND CRU CLASSÉ, BORDEAUX
Château Belgrave
The great wine of the property is Château Belgrave, classified 5th Grand Cru Classé in 1855. Thanks to the studies carried out on the property to understand the behavior of the vine according to the nature of the subsoil and its water supply, the Château Belgrave team has acquired a perfect knowledge of the vineyard. The viticultural work, associated with reasoned protection, as well as the harvest have been adapted to this cartography.
Stepping back in time, Chateau Belgrave was not always a vineyard. In fact, under King Louis XIV, it was originally used as a hunting lodge, which is paid homage on the label.
It is also next door to Chateau Lagrange, which is in St. Julien. With just a few meters further during the 1855 classification, and it could have been in St. Julien.
Starting in 1990, Chateau Belgrave moved to a cleaner form of vineyard management, with the elimination of all chemical fertilizers and limiting the use of pesticides, along with harvesting riper fruits and seeking lower yields. In 1993, a major renovation of the wine-making facilities and cellars took place.
The wine expresses all the finesse and personality of this great terroir. Dense and deep, it is distinguished by its aging capacity, its aromatic complexity and its very Saint-Julien character.
2020
Domaine Etienne Daulny Sancerre
LOIRE, FRANCE
Etienne Daulny
Etienne Daulny owns 15 hectares of vines that are divided into about 50 different plots within the Sancerre wine region. Daulny combines diverse plots from varying types of soil, including clay and flint, Portlandian and Kimmeridgian, into his regular cuvée of Sancerre. But Daulny's cuvée normale is far from normal. After all, grapes from some of the appellation’s most revered vineyards make their way into this cuvée, including old vine plantings at Les Monts Damnés, Les Bois Butteux, and La Perriere. Clos de Chaudenay(the hot spot) is a single vineyard cuvée from a gentle slope just above Verdigny. These southwest facing vines average 40 years of age.
A combination of grapes from various plots (including some of the best vineyards in the appellation) and various types of soil, fermented and aged only in stainless steel tanks, this Sancerre is a perfect representation of its AOC. "Made from 40-year-old sauvignon blanc vines, this Sancerre captures the essence of the grape with floral, mineral and ground coffee bean aromas and grapefruit, white peach flavors. A small percentage was aged in older oak but the fruit from this vineyard is powerful enough to absorb it, giving the wine a bit of texture and body. With bright acidity and fruit, this is a great wine to have with a fish dish cooked with fava beans as well as one where the favas are the main event."
2016
Château Potensac
MEDOC, BORDEAUX, FRANCE
Potensac
The estate has been in the same family since time immemorial and has always been handed down by women. The current owner, Jean-Hubert Delon, inherited the estate from his paternal grandmother, Georgette Liquard. Although close to the river, Potensac is situated on a high point of land in North Medoc. Because of this position, the site has been populated since ancient times. The name "Medoc" in fact comes from "medio aquae" which means "in the middle of the waters."
Planted on the best quality soils in the Ordonnac district, the vineyards now extend over 84 hectares on a terroir where the typical characteristics of each grape variety express themselves very distinctly and give the wine superb aging potential.
One of the most—if not the most—famous red wine regions of the world, the Medoc reaches from the city of Bordeaux northwest along the left bank of the Gironde River almost all the way to the Atlantic. Its vineyards climb along a band of flatlands, sandwiched between the coastal river marshes and the pine forests in the west. The entire region can only claim to be three to eight miles wide (at its widest), but it is about 50 miles long.
While the Medoc encompasses the Haut Medoc, and thus most of the classed-growth villages (Margaux, Moulis, Listrac, St-Julien, Pauillac and St. Estephe) it is really only those wines produced in the Bas-Medoc that use the Medoc appellation name. The ones farther down the river, and on marginally higher ground, are eligible to claim the Haut Medoc appellation, or their village or cru status.
While the region can’t boast a particularly dramatic landscape, impressive chateaux disperse themselves among the magically well-drained gravel soils that define the area. This optimal soil draining capacity is completely necessary and ideal in the Medoc's damp, maritime climate. These gravels also serve well to store heat in cooler years.
2014
Ancient Oak Cellars “Alcasus Reserve” Berger Vineyard
SONOMA MOUNTAIN, SONOMA
Ancient Oak Cellars
The owners, Ken & Melissa Moholt-Siebert launched their winery in 2006 with grapes from Ken's grandparents' vineyard, which Ken inherited, and opened the tasting room in October, 2012. The very first wine from Ancient Oak Cellars was Siebert Ranch Pinot Noir, made from grapes on Ken & Melissa's family vineyard in the Russian River Valley. They had always read how finicky Pinot Noir is, it being lamented as the heartbreak grape, for how difficult it is to grow and make into good wine. They never knew anything else.
As it happens, it is not so hard to grow Pinot Noir, if you are in the right place. They started with just a couple hundred cases, then the next year made a thousand, adding some Zinfandel from Pagnano Vineyard, and some Russian River Pinot Noir from other growers, and Russian River Chardonnay. In 2012, they added the Cabernet, Cab Franc and Merlot on Sonoma Mountain.
They source fruit from five family vineyards--three they farm themselves and the other two are farmed by the families that first planted them 30 or more years ago.
In 2014 Greg La Follette joined the team. Greg has degrees in Plant Biology and Chemistry and then wrote a master's thesis on the role of native yeast in sur lie aging. He took his passion for listening to wine and working with native yeasts--methods not suited to large-scale, industrial winemaking, but capable of extraordinary results in small lots under the attentive eye of the vigneron, and built the reputation of a number of wineries.
2019
Y. Rousseau Tannat
CLARKSBURG AVA, CA
Y. Rousseau
Y. Rousseau Wines is a dream that began long ago in the South-West of France and continues to grow and evolve today. Yannick Rousseau, French native, founder and winemaker, followed his heart and passion for winemaking all the way to Napa Valley where he met his Texan-born wife, Susan. The two of them bring their combined entrepreneurial savvy to embrace the ebbs and flows of running a family winery with the legacy of their racines, hospitable style, and discriminating artisanship.
Born in Gascony, France to the son of a butcher, Yannick makes his wines with the heart of a Gascon using the earth, elements and fruit of California. Bringing together these passions of place, time and the elements requires hard work with a gentle hand to produce the alchemy of stand-apart wines. Now, he carries forward his winemaking mission still embracing Colombard, Tannat and other favored varietals and blending them to create revived, and even edge-bending wines. His wines are recognized for their qualities of balanced drinkability and food-worthiness while being sought-after by wine geeks from all over.
Tannat’s roots reach through the same French countryside as Yannick’s. As one of the Sud Ouest's hallmark red beauties, it hails from the Madiran region near the Pyrenées mountains. It was the first red grape variety with which Yannick made wine as an intern winemaker in France.
NV
Adrien Renoir Le Terroir Extra Brut
CHAMPAGNE
Renoir
Four generations of the Renoir family have been involved in wine production in Champagne. Adrien Renoir only just recently took control of the domaine after having the reins passed down to him in 2014 by his father, Vincent Renoir. The two, like many father & son winemakers, have and continue to have quite different views, yet worked together for Adrien’s first two vintages before Adrien took full control in 2016. Although Vincent didn’t agree with Adrien’s push for cleaner farming, noting that it wasn’t achievable so far north in Champagne, he allowed him to make the conversion as long as it was done slowly and cautiously.
The wines now bear the name of the fourth generation on the label, having previously been labeled as Vincent Renoir. At only 29 years old Adrien is already proving to be a force to reckon with in Champagne. He has pretty swiftly adjusted many things at the domaine, including switching to organic farming, adjustments in the cellar primarily increased use of oak for fermentations and aging. Winemaking here is artisanal with ambient yeast fermentations lees stirring and no temperature control. He has also diversified the line-up of bottlings to focus more on the unique parcels and terroirs that his family has cultivated for generations
2019
Bass Phillip "Bin 17K" Pinot Noir
VICTORIA, AUSTRALIA
Bass Phillip
The wines of Bass Phillip are endowed with vibrant fruit and considerable delicacy, and evolve and develop dramatically with aeration in a swirling glass or decent decanting. They are never excessive in tannins or alcohol in their youth, and with age, they blossom gracefully to develop an intensity of flavour in the finish framed by strong minerality and natural acidity. Countless tales vouch for how Bass Phillip Pinot Noirs improve in the cellar, sometimes for well over twenty years.
Drinking an aged Bass Phillip pinot is a transcendental experience a dedicated wine lover must experience to fathom just how special these wines are. Immense, soil driven complexity, deliciousness and seemingly endless ageability are compelling reasons why many Pinot connoisseurs consider them legends.
The three wines at the top of the Bass Phillip hierarchy — the Estate, Premium and Reserve Pinot Noirs — have always come from the same original 1979 main vineyard in Leongatha: a 3.5-hectare block, known as the Estate vineyard. Within this vineyard the same rows of vines and sub-plots are used for each of these wines every year, purely because those vines give the best grapes, year after year.
Bass Phillip’s first Pinot Noir was made in 1984, and the first commercial release, comprising the 1985 to 1989 vintages, took place in 1991. The 1989 vintage was the first in which the Reserve, Premium and Estate Pinot Noirs were separately vinified, following five years’ worth of research into the separate vattings, which involved numerous small-batch fermentation trials.
The “17K” is dedicated to becoming the entry-level wine of Bass, accessible to new generations, but also for those who want to enjoy a glass of Bass Phillip on a Tuesday night without breaking the bank! The selection of the fruits is coming from the deepest soils or younger vineyards. Delicate red fruits with purity, the wine is made to provide drinking pleasure straight away
2017
Weingut Heinrich Blaufrankisch Leithaberg
BURGENLAND, AUSTRIA
Heinrich
Gernot and Heike Heinrich founded their winery in 1990 with just one hectare and have steadily grown to 90 hectares today. Heinrich was one of the first in the region to transition from simple white wines to high-quality reds in the early 1990s, and became famous for powerful red blends such as Salzberg, Gabarinza, and Pannobile. In recent years, the focus has turned to Blaufränkisch from the nearby Leithaberg DAC, and to “Freyheit,” a line of natural wines produced with minimal intervention in the cellar. Heinrich converted to biodynamics in 2006 and is a member of Respekt, a certifying body for biodynamic viticulture in Austria. Heinrich today is one of Austria’s most innovative wine producers
2014
Mas de Can Blau
Monstant, Spain
Cellers Can Blau
Cellers Can Blau is located in the D.O. of Montsant. Contrary to its illustrious neighbor, Priorat, in Montsant one may work with many characteristic varieties and each vine is planted in soils of different compositions. The Cariñena and Garnacha vines used for the production of these wines has an approximate age ranging from 25 to 40 years. The vineyards of Garnacha are around 2,000 ft. in altitude in the area of Cornudella de Montsant on slate soils. Cariñena vineyards in the Darmós and Masrig area are on clay soils, and the Syrah vineyards are located on limestone soils.
The project, together with the Gil Family and Victor Rodriguez, is headed in technical aspects by winemaker Nuria López Sarroca.
2018
Etienne Sauzet Bourgogne, Hautes-Côtes de Beaune, "Jardin du Calvaire"
BURGUNDY, FR
Etienne Sauzet
The history of this domaine dates to the beginning of the 20th century, when Etienne Sauzet inherited and bought several plots of vines in the village of Puligny-Montrachet. The vines passed through the family to Jeanine Boillot, Sauzet’s granddaughter. Jeanine and her husband, Gérard Boudot, managed the domaine, making many modernizations including improved vinification techniques and biodynamic farming. Today the domaine has been passed to their daughter Emilie and her husband, Benoît Riffault, who continue to produce white wines that are among the most sought-after in all of Burgundy. Although the winemaking techniques have been modernized, M. Sauzet’s traditions of estate-bottling and of aging the wines on their lees for 10-12 months to “nourish them” are still respected and result in superbly finished, fruity, and full-bodied wines. After four generations, Sauzet is still synonymous with high-quality, elegant, Burgundian Chardonnay.
2019
Bodega Chacra “Barda” Pinot Noir
PATAGONIA, ARGENTINA
Bodega Chacra
Bodega Chacra is located in the Rio Negro Valley of northern Patagonia. The property's location in the arid central Argentine desert is tempered by the confluence of the Neuquen and Limay Rivers, both of which flow from the Andes and converge in the Rio Negro, which in turn flows into the Atlantic.
The soil of the Rio Negro Valley, an ancient riverbed composed of limestone, sand, and clay, coupled with the Valley's pristine pollution-free air and tremendous luminosity, make for ideal conditions to grow Pinot Noir.
In 2004, Piero Incisa della Rocchetta purchased the first of Bodega Chacra's vineyards, a property with an existing, though abandoned, vineyard planted in 1932. This vineyard of gnarled and ungrafted Pinot Noir vines was later added to a neighboring vineyard of vines planted in 1955. With these old vineyards, ostensibly in the middle of nowhere, Piero has created a winery that exists outside of the usual New World vs. Old World debate and is redefining what is possible with Pinot Noir (and now Chardonnay with the help of Jean-Marc Roulot) in the Southern Hemisphere.
The climate is dry, with a maximum humidity of thirty percent and an average of seven inches of rainfall annually. This aridity, coupled with the natural barrier of the surrounding desert, results in a complete absence of phylloxera and vine diseases.
2020
Yann Bertrand "Les Bambins" Saint Amour
BEAUJOLAIS, FR
Yann Bertrand
Growing up in Fleurie, Yann Bertrand never thought he would become a winemaker. He briefly enrolled in commerce at a local university, then travelled around the french alps for a few years. When applying for local jobs, he noted that he was the son of a vigneron and soon found himself working at wine bars and wine shops, surrounded by passionate wine geeks and artisan winemakers who often came to deliver wine themselves. Tasting wines in a new way, he began to ask himself some questions, and eventually decided that the metier of a winemaker would be interesting to him if he pursued it with the same passion as the role models he encountered.
Returning to the Beaujolais, Yann began to learn from the incredible circle of producers that he never knew before, including well-known people like jean Foillard and yvon Metras, as well as the behind-the-scenes guru Jacques Neauport (who was the quiet right-hand to the legendary jules Chauvet).
All of the vines are farmed organically and located in a single 7.5 hectare block known as grand pré. The vineyards are 30-110 years old, planted on extremely fine sandy granite soils, and all winemaking is done using cold carbonic whole cluster fermentations that were developed in the Beaujolais, as well as no added so2. Yann's parents had been slowly moving in the direction of organic viticulture since they took over the family domaine in 1992, and in 2013, the entire vineyard was certified organic. Additionally, yann took on 1.5 hectares to farm on his own using biodynamic principles. Thanks to incredible farming and knack for gamay, Yann Bertrand has justifiably become one of the most sought-after producers in the region.
2016
Finca Allende Mingortiz Red
RIOJA, SP
Finca Allende
Founded in 1986 by Miguel Ángel de Gregorio in the hillside town of Briones, Finca Allende is located in an ancient 17th century manor, set in a medieval town square within the heart of Rioja Alta. Roughly translated as ‘further,’ Allende’s philosophy is to go further towards creating the perfect Rioja. The majority of vines are plowed with mules, grapes are hand-harvested, triple-selected and manually punched-down, before undergoing extensive underground aging in both barrel and bottle. Known for producing round wines with great body and structure, each bottle is hand-crafted by and contains the signature of Miguel Ángel de Gregorio. Considered to be Spain’s first terroirist, Miguel Ángel’s sincere dedication to natural farming and preserving the integrity of Rioja Alta, is why he is one of the region’s most celebrated winemakers and a mastermind when it comes to making world class estate-grown wines.
When he arrived in Briones, Miguel Ángel de Gregorio discovered a unique terroir, a terroir that enabled him to make the wines he had always dreamed about. Little by little, the soil began to reveal its own special features and Miguel Ángel started interpreting them until he reached a point of mutual understanding that is a key part of the success of the wines from Finca Allende.
Situated in Briones, in the north-west end of La Rioja Alta, the Finca Allende vineyards are located on hills facing north, north-east and north-west that are caressed and enhanced by winds from the Atlantic Ocean. The singularities of its terroir, orientation, climate and the different continental, Mediterranean and Atlantic influences combine to enable the growth of a supreme grape that manifests its potential in most excellent fashion in Allende wine.
2018
I Clivi Friulano "Brazan"
FRIULI, IT
Ferdinando Zanusso
Ferdinando Zanusso, who founded I Clivi, says: “My idea was to let history speak through the wine, by making as “transparent” a wine as possible, in which soil, climate and tradition may come fully through and be perceived without interference. A wine truly grown, whose character is shaped entirely in the vineyard by soil, climate and vines and is in no way altered in the cellar, a wine that stands solely on itself, on its own intrinsic qualities, and is not made to suffer any intervention or “improvement”. In short, purest terroir expression, “without addition or diminishing.” The recipe is organic cultivation in the vineyard, with naturally low yields which seldom reach 20 hectolitres per hectare, and spontaneous, non-interventionist winemaking to ensure absolute integrity.”
This paragraph defines great wine of any kind, I think, and the Zanusso family lives up to their philosophy. Their varieties include the native varieties Ribolla Gialla, Friulano (formerly known as Tocai Friulano), Malvasia Istriana, Verduzzo (in dry form, which is unusual), and a little Merlot, which has so acclimatized to this corner of Italy that it’s practically native. All of the wines are grown organically, and are cleanly but very naturally made, expressive, distinctive and mouthwatering. The winemaking is essentially the same with all of the whites, except the lees-aged wines and the sparkler. The whites are not macerated with the skins, they are fermented using indigenous yeasts, and they age on the fine lees until bottling.
2018
Sylvain Pataille Marsannay Rouge "En Clémengeots"
MARSANNAY, FR
Sylvain Pataille
Sylvain Pataille is one of the new breed of winemakers who first achieved the highest level of technical training before beginning to craft his own wines. A highly-regarded consulting oenologist, who still advises over 15 Burgundy domaines, Pataille has in very short order built up (mostly en fermage) a domaine of some 15 hectares, all in Marsannay, the northernmost, and most recent (1987) AOC of the Côte de Nuits.
Domaine Pataille currently produces 12 cuvées, including not only red, white and rosé Marsannay (Marsannay being the only appellation in the Côte d’Or permitted AC rosé), but also Aligoté, Passetoutgrain and Bourgogne Blanc and Rouge.
Domaine Pataille is farmed organically — in transition to completely biodynamic wine production. Accordingly, there are no chemical herbicides, pesticides, or fertilizers; and only natural yeasts, no enzymes, are used. The fermentation, partially in fiberglass and partially in stainless steel, is relatively short — usually only 10-12 days — with temperatures held to a maximum of around 32°C. The wines are then racked into oak barriques (1/3 new) and then aged for up to 24 months (18 on average) before bottling.
2017
Anthill Farms Peters Vineyard Pinot Noir
SONOMA COAST
Anthill Farms
Anthill Farms is an exciting project that focuses on producing exceptional Pinot Noir from a broad range of North Coast vineyards. The properties are managed with intensive and meticulous farming practices, with minimal ecological impact. As for winemaking, there are two unchanging goals: to make wines that express the growing site and the characteristics of the vintage above all else, and to make wines that, simply put, taste good. These goals require gentle handling from crushing to bottling, judicious use of oak, and, perhaps most importantly, leaving the wine alone as much as possible. “We didn’t know whether the name was really great or really dumb,” admits Anthill Farms Winery partner Webster Marquez. “It came about because we’re all winemakers and people would see us all scrambling around trying to grab the same hose at once; they said it was like watching a bunch of ants.” This trio of ants—Marquez, Anthony Filiberti and David Low—met while working at Sonoma’s Williams Selyem. Says Marquez, “We realized that we have the same approach: using Pinot Noir—the most ‘transparent’ grape in the world—to communicate the way vineyards from cooler areas create distinctive wines.” The partners themselves farm many of the small plots where they buy their grapes, and the results of this labor of love are remarkably seductive wines that combine concentration and finesse. Now that the company has grown from producing 200 cases in 2004 to 1,800 this year, the trio’s work is becoming ever more demanding. Notes Marquez, “It’s a good thing we’re young and don’t need much sleep.” –Food & Wine Magazine’s “Most Promising New Winery” 2009
2018
Pax "The Vicar" Grenache/Mourvedre
NORTH COAST, CA
Pax
Pax and Pam moved to wine country in 1997 to pursue careers in wine. After a few years of tasting and sourcing wine from all over California for Dean & Deluca, Pax made the decision to start his own brand from a vineyard with which he felt a kismet connection. Alder Springs Vineyard was the site, and after finding an investor to help realize the dream, Pax Wines launched in 2000.
The Mahles made a bold choice by favoring the “untapped potential" of the Syrah grape. Their entire lineup of wines came from cool climate vineyards in Sonoma County and Mendocino. These wines were big, rich expressions of Syrah that went on to be highly sought after. As a result, Pax quickly became established as one of California’s premier producers of Syrah.
Presently, Pax Wines has evolved to include new and exciting varieties in addition to Syrah. This includes Trousseau Gris, Chenin Blanc, Gamay Noir, and Mission, along with a host of others recently planted.
At Pax Wines winemaking is approached holistically. This is done by taking care to use only grapes that are grown without the use of chemicals and by hand making their wines with as little intervention as possible. As a result, all of their wines are crushed by foot and hand, and fermented using only natural yeasts. To taste these wines visit the urban winery and tasting room in the outdoor Barlow market in downtown Sebastopol.
2016
Adelsheim Chardonnay Ribbon Springs Vineyard
WILLAMETTE VALLEY, OR
David Adelsheim
Established in 1971, Adelsheim is a family-owned and operated winery with estate vineyards located in Oregon's northern Willamette Valley. Over the past 41 years, the Adelsheim Vineyard estate has grown to include twelve exceptional vineyard sites throughout the Valley, totaling 237 acres. Company co-founder, David Adelsheim, has done work throughout the years to benefit both the Oregon and American wine industries: grape and wine research, wine labeling, industry education, and promotion. He is recognized for his "outstanding service" to the industry and has played a vital role in building the Oregon wine industry and establishing its reputation worldwide. Today, he leads a current generation of passionate staff devoted to leading the industry in crafting consistently transcendent wines.
“The idea that we would plant a grape variety that no one knew well in a place that nobody had ever heard of was not only remarkably naïve, it was a remarkable leap of faith.” — DAVID ADELSHEIM, FOUNDER
2018
Louis Boillot, Volnay, “Les Grands Poisots”
CÔTE DE BEAUNE, BURGUNDY, FR
Louis Boillot
Louis Boillot’s emerging position in the Burgundy firmament is not accidental. Despite having only launched his domaine in 2002, he came armed with some of the oldest and best situated vineyards in Burgundy—thanks to four generations of Boillots having acquired prime sites in Volnay and Gevrey Chambertin. Louis’ domaine has quietly become one of the most admired small estates in the Côte d’Or. The turning point came in the mid-2000s, when he and his partner—the supremely talented Ghislaine Barthod—built a cave together in Chambolle-Musigny. This brought two of Burgundy’s most gifted winemakers together—working and tasting side by side—with the alchemy you’d expect. The vineyard management was also combined, with Louis responsible for not only his own vines, but those of Ghislaine as well. It’s no wonder Ghislaine lets Louis take care of her vines. He’s a master with more than 30 years of experience—employing the minimum of interventions, and meticulously pruning for balanced yields. His winemaking is equally timeless, featuring extended, gentle extractions and a limited use of new barrels.
This wine derives from 60-year-old vines located below the premier cru Brouillards.
Wine Advocate February 2020: "The 2018 vintage has turned out very well indeed at this small domaine, Louis Boillot and son Clément opting to begin their harvest in late August. Yields are between 20% and 30% lower than in 2017, and alcohol percentages range from the low-12s to the mid-13s. Everything reviewed here comes warmly recommended. As I wrote last year, while Boillot is an experienced vigneron, his first solo vintage for his own label was 2003, and perhaps that's why this address still flies under the radar. Or perhaps it's because he—like his partner Ghislaine Barthod—lacks a "collectible" grand cru to incite speculation. But with excellent old-vine holdings in top appellations, deft winemaking and a classical aesthetic, readers should take note. Plowed vineyards, destemmed grapes, classical cuvaisons and élevage in a moderate percentage of new barrels are the rudiments of the approach."
2019
Peay Vineyards Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
FORT-ROSS SEAVIEW, SONOMA COAST
Peay Vineyards
Peay Vineyards is a 53-acre hilltop vineyard located above a river in the far northwestern corner of the West Sonoma Coast, 4 miles from the Pacific Ocean. They grow Pinot Noir, Syrah, Chardonnay, Viognier, Roussanne and Marsanne.
The beginning of Peay Vineyards, from the pen of Andy Peay….
“Armed with tanks full of coffee and gas, a Polaroid, and U.S. Geological maps in hand, we drove the back roads and coastal hills of the West Coast of the United States in 1995 looking for that special plot of land. “Hey, Nick, is that moss hanging off that split rail fence. Hmm, good, likely lots of cooling fog.” “Is that bracken fern? Maybe too much water, Andy.” “Excuse me, old timer, do you have any records of temperatures in this area?” “Can you see that parcel from the lowest branch? Take a photo.” “Whaddya think, 10% slope on that hillside?” “What soils do you find on this ridge?” “Um, Nick, that is definitely trespassing.” We drove all around the Santa Ynez Valley in Santa Barbara, up and around the Mendocino Ridges, down along the Sonoma Coast, even traveling as far as eastern Washington.
One morning, I — Andy — woke up in a thick fog on a black sand beach on the Lost Coast in Humboldt County (Humboldt County?!) I grabbed my bivvy sack and stuffed my gear into my truck and headed south on Highway 1 with plans to revisit some logging roads on the Mendocino and Sonoma Coast ridgelines that caught our attention on our last trip. En route, I stopped in the town of Mendocino to pick up real estate listings to see if anything appealing had gone on the market. I needed a cup of coffee and who knew maybe I could avoid spending my day climbing trees for better sight lines for photos and scaling old logging roads rutted from years of heavy winter rains. There was one property listed down the coast an hour or so. “A scenic viewpoint with vineyard potential!” I groaned. Anyone who has looked for land in “wine country” recognizes that this designation is meaningless; you could plant a vine there and it may live. Heck, vines thrive almost everywhere. But there is no guarantee it would bear fruit or make tasty wine. It could, however, and for that you pay double the price.
I decided I should check it out anyway and drove an hour south of the town of Mendocino to meet an agent in the coastal town of Gualala, a hamlet that serves as the northern border of the Sonoma Coast. From there I drove south on Highway 1 along the Pacific Ocean into Sonoma County for a few miles and at a place named Sea Ranch headed east crossing the San Andreas Fault and climbed the coast ridge along the Wheatfield Fork of the Gualala River. As we mounted the ridge, the sign posts we used for identifying the correct climate and soil types were abundant. I got excited.
After winding our way through tall stands of redwood trees we pulled into a clearing on a south facing ridge. We were perched on a knoll on the second ridge four miles from the Pacific Ocean. Bronzed fields sloped and dropped into steep gorges forming a pronounced camelback shape to the land. Fog listlessly retreated into the river gorge pulling in its long tentacles across the fields. A stand of fir capped the southern part of the knoll, hiding the bell-shaped terrain gently sloping south east, south, and southwest. To the south, far in the distance, I could see vineyards renowned for Pinot noir and Chardonnay. But no one had grown grapes this far northwest in Sonoma County. It sat deeply in the inversion layer and was too cold and foggy. And god-forsakenly remote! Right here, this was frontier land. It was breath-taking.
I excitedly walked all over the parcel envisioning rows of vines. At high noon, a gentle breeze was persistently luffing my t-shirt making me shiver. The slopes were mostly gentle, the exposure ideal, and the local flora encouraging. I snapped a handful of Polaroids, thanked the agent for her time, and went on my way. “Cool breezes. Sloping hillsides. It looks promising! Let’s see what Nick thinks.”
Well, Nick liked what he saw in the photos. He visited the parcel. Took soil samples. Studied the geographic history. Poured over daily temperature and precipitation records an old timer living on the property had recorded for the past 15 years in a spiral binder. Nick gave the green light and our adventure was underway.”
2019
Envidia Cochina Tête De Cuvée Albarino
RÍAS BAIXAS, SPAIN
Eladio Pineiro
Eladio Pineiro founded Bodegas Mar de Frades in 1983 after spending many years making Albarino wine, before the Appellation Rias Baixas was granted. In January 2003, due to events that have influenced the life of his family, he decided to sell his winery keeping the vineyards he owned. Later, Eladio decided to take a step forward and do what really excites and motivates him. He started to make wines again and moved away from the usual circuit creating a new category: wines with soul! By showcasing their roots and history, he produced reds from Portuguese Alentejo and whites from Albarino Rias Baixas, while having absolute freedom to create and develop small amounts of real wine, for wine lovers seeking wines with meaning and showing their terroir and history.
The vineyards are located throughout the Salnes Valley. They average thirty years old and have been in transition to biodynamics for more than eight years.
The wine goes through maceration from 8 to 10 hours, and then fermentation with native yeasts. After fermentation, Eladio selected the upper part of the casks with higher fruit ratios (Tete de Cuvee). It was then left aging on fine lees with weekly batonage for six months. Classic citrus notes in the supple mid-weight body that is carried by beautiful acidity. The lees contact adds a layer of depth to the wine.
2019
Evening Land Passetoutgrains Seven Springs Vineyard
EOLA-AMITY HILLS, WILLAMETTE VALLEY, OR
Seven Springs Vinyard
Rajat Parr and Sashi Moorman stand at the vanguard of the new world wine. Together they steward the historic Seven Springs Vineyard into its fourth decade. At Evening Land Vineyards, they strive to grow and vinify fine Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Gamay from their historic Seven Springs Estate Vineyard in Oregon's Eola-Amity Hills. Totalling 85 acres under vine; their east-facing vineyard, farmed biodynamically since 2007, was first planted in 1984, and sits atop rocky, volcanic soils.
Seven Springs’ eastern exposure ensures the vineyard awakens to the warmth of the morning sun. The vineyard’s position opposite the windy Van Duzer Corridor, mitigates hot, sunny afternoons in the Willamette Valley with cool winds from the Pacific. As valley temperatures increase throughout the day, warm air rises, replaced by cooling winds flooding in from the Pacific through the Van Duzer gap and across our vineyard. This daily cooling, along with our eastern aspect, affords our grapes the luxury of extended time on the vine.
Since its inception, Seven Springs has been dry-farmed. The vineyard is LIVE™ certified and was converted to biodynamic viticulture in 2007. We continue to farm Seven Springs biodynamically, encouraging a healthy and sustainable ecosystem in the vineyard.
Seven Springs is planted overwhelmingly to Pinot Noir, followed by Chardonnay, and Gamay. The oldest own-rooted blocks of Pinot Noir and Gamay are a testament to, and daily reminder of, Oregon’s incredible history and potential. Benchmark Oregon producers have long sourced fruit from Seven Springs and the wines from this vineyard are the most decorated and award-winning wines in Oregon’s history.
“We are, first and foremost, faithful stewards of the historic Seven Springs vineyard, planted by Oregon wine pioneer Al MacDonald in 1984. On this dramatic east-facing slope, in the iron-rich and rocky, volcanic soils of the Eola-Amity Hills, Al MacDonald undertook what would become one of Oregon’s most recognized vineyards. Nestled against a forest of Douglas fir with views eastward to Mt. Hood and Mt. Jefferson, it is immediately evident to any visitor why Al chose this site.”
- Rajat Parr, Sashi Moorman, & Ben DiCristina - Evening Land Vineyards
LIVE Certified Sustainable/Practicing Biodynamic & Organic
Co-fermented Pinot Noir & Gamay
Seven Springs Vineyard (Eola-Amity Hills AVA)
Iron-rich volcanic basalt soils
Planted in 2003
Northwest facing slope
Whole-cluster carbonic fermentation
Indigenous yeasts fermentation in neutral barriques (225L)
Aged 8 months in barrique
595 cases produced
12% abv
What is Passetoutgrains? Bourgogne Passe-Tout-Grains is an Appellation d'origine contrôlée (AOC) for wine from the region of Burgundy in France. Most Bourgogne Passe-Tout-Grains, (or written unhyphenated as Bourgogne Passetoutgrains), is red although rosé wine may also be produced. Unlike other Burgundy wines, which are primarily produced from a single grape variety, Bourgogne Passe-Tout-Grains is essentially a cuvée of Gamay and Pinot noir.
This Seven Springs Passetoutgrains is Burgundian inspired by blending and co-fermenting the Pinot and Gamay together.
2017
Piedrasassi Syrah "Patterson & Sebastiano"
STA. RITA HILLS, SANTA BARBARA, CA
Piedrasassi
Piedrasassi primarily cultivates and vinifies Syrah, a variety with which winemaker Sashi Moorman has worked for over two decades. Today, the viticultural heritage of the Northern Rhone and the pioneering ethos of the Central Coast equally inform his engagement with Syrah.
Their vineyard sources within the greater Central Coast are found in its remarkable east-west transverse valleys, shaped by an era of tectonic contortion and upheaval. Here, geologic time stands on its head: diverse soils of varying epochs are often entangled. Receptive to the daily rhythms of the Pacific’s cooling winds and pervasive fog, these valleys and, in particular, their constituent hillsides, are host to some of California’s most compelling terroir for Syrah.
In the winery, they strive to coax from each harvest its individual expression of place. They employ, in balance, time-honored technique, observations from their travels, and intuition. They cultivate the native yeasts of our vineyards before fermenting without additives or the manipulation of temperature. They often make use of the whole grape cluster – its berries and stems. The wines are then raised in large, used barrels, and, finally, bottled with only minimal sulfur – and without any fining or filtration.
Sashi Moorman has made wine in the Central Coast for over twenty years. His career began with Syrah, as Adam Tolmach’s first employee at The Ojai Vineyard, in 1996. Today, in addition to Piedrasassi, he is a winemaking-partner of Sandhi and Domaine de la Côte in Santa Barbara, and Evening Land Vineyards in the Willamette Valley, Oregon.
2018
Petrolo "Galatrona"
TOSCANA IGT
Petrolo
Petrolo is the definition of a cult winery, with an owner and a story that have helped create its legendary status. While the estate’s benchmark wine, the Merlot cru Galatrona, deservedly receives fireworks in the press and is part of the history of Tuscany’s quality revolution in the late 1980s and 1990s, the winery’s two other standouts, Torrione and Boggina, are an equally thrilling success – Sangiovese from a special and virtually unknown appellation bordering Chianti Classico that today produces wines of distinct regional identity.
Though virtually unknown even in the wine world, the Valdarno di Sopra denomination dates back to the days of the Medici family during the Renaissance, and the area has always been renowned for the winemaking potential of the tiny area of Tuscany near Chianti in which it is located.
In more recent times, Petrolo was bought in the 1940s by Gastone Bazzocchi, who was the first person to begin cultivating high-quality Sangiovese-based wines at the estate, but it is his grandson, Luca Sanjust, who has brought the winery the cult status it enjoys today. An art scholar and successful painter in his own right, Luca decided to change paths in the early 1980s and has dedicated his time and passion to Petrolo ever since.
Petrolo has a remarkable track record of producing some of the finest examples of very different native and non-native varieties in Tuscany. While Galatrona deservedly receives fireworks in the press and is part of the history of Tuscany’s quality revolution in the late 1980s and 1990s, Torrione and Boggina are an equally thrilling success – Sangiovese from a special area that long ago was left just outside Chianti Classico, and today produces wines of distinct regional identity.
Galatrona is Petrolo’s most acclaimed wine, a Merlot cru made exclusively with grapes from the Galatrona-Feriale vineyard planted in various phases during the 1990s with low vigor Bordeaux clones. The unique microclimate allows the concentration of the noble components of the grapes that are fundamental for the great structure, elegance, balance, and persistence that has made Galatrona one of Italy’s most coveted wines.
The vines are planted on clay-rich loam, with shale, marl and sandstone. Clay helps to retain the moisture in the soil, which is particularly useful during the hot, dry Tuscan summers. The vineyard lies approximately 1000 feet above sea level and has a south-eastern exposure.
Skin maceration lasts more than 20 days. Pump-overs are done manually with considerable care and very frequently to allow the complete extraction from the skins. Malolactic fermentation takes place in barriques, usually starting quickly and with regular development. After the malolactic fermentation the wine ages in new and almost new French oak barriques for approximately 18 months. During this period the wine is left for the first 8 months on the fine lees. After bottling, the wine begins its usual maturation period of about 6 months before release.
2019
Kumeu River Estate Chardonnay
AUCKLAND, NZ
Kumeu River
Founded in 1944 by Mick Brajkovich, wife Katé and son Maté, Kumeu River was one of the early pioneers in Auckland, New Zealand, that helped to establish its reputation as a world-class wine region. Still family owned and run, Kumeu River continues to pioneer new frontiers: winemaker Michael Brajkovich became New Zealand’s first member of the prestigious Institute of Masters of Wine, London, and has been testing and championing screw cap closures for close to 20 years.
1979 was a watershed year for Kumeu River, when the Brajkovichs moved away from hybrid varieties used for the production of fortified and basic red and white wines to the now-common — but then-unusual — varieties such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir and Merlot. As Michael, Milan and Paul became more involved in the family business in the 1980s, the Brajkovichs continued to focus on quality and reputation; the winery changed its name to Kumeu River Wines in 1986 and began making a Burgundy-influenced style of Chardonnay that featured indigenous yeasts, extended lees aging and malolactic fermentation. The result has been a series of wines that are innovative, distinctive and unique in both style and quality for New Zealand. Today, Kumeu River produces 250,000 bottles annually from 30 hectares (74 acres) of estate vineyards in Kumeu, and another 10 hectares (24.7 acres) from local growers.
2020
Chateau Peyrassol "Clos de Peyrassol" Rosé
Provence, France
Commanderie de Peyrassol
Standing above the village of Flassans-sur-Isole, in the heart of the hills of the Var, the Commanderie de Peyrassol was founded in the 13th century by the Knights Templar. This great expanse of fertile soil was a popular staging post and a place of rest for large numbers of pilgrims setting off for the Holy Land. As one of the jewels of Provence, the domaine has always maintained its agricultural and winegrowing traditions.
Created in 2009, this blend is produced from selected plots in the area of land known as the Clos Peyrassol. Produced only in the best years, it is a lively incarnation of the spirit of excellence of the domaine. Rare and precious, on average only 10,000 bottles are produced per year.
Hand-harvested at night to retain freshness and prevent any early maceration of the berries. The fruit is destemmed and pressed gently to separate the free run juice. It is vinified in stainless steel tank after a 24-hour cold settling to remove the majority of lees. Malolactic fermentation is avoided.
Aged for 6 months in grit stoneware jars which maintains the great freshness of the fruit while gaining complexity from the micro-oxygenation of the jars.
2017
Ferrer Bobet Priorat Vinyes Velles
Priorat, Spain
Ferrer Bobet
Ferrer Bobet is about respect. Firstly, the mutual respect of two friends, Sergi Ferrer-Salat and Raül Bobet and their passion for the world and culture of wine. Secondly, the respect for the long traditions of viticulture and vinification in Priorat and a commitment to the economic and social development of the region. Thirdly, and above all, the respect for the terroir and a dedication to producing wines that reflect the distinctive mineral essence from the land.
Sergi and Raül’s project started in 2002, and in 2008 their first two wines were released. For their initial wines, Ferrer Bobet used hundred-year-old Carignan and Grenache vines planted in some of the best vineyards in Priorat. These vineyards have exceptional slate soil, locally known as “llicorella,” and a topography characterized by steep slopes and high elevations that guarantee optimal ripening and ideal night/day temperature fluctuations, fundamental for preserving flavors and acidity. Sergi and Raül continue to work hard in their own vineyards. They have planted Syrah, Grenache, Carignane, Cabernet Sauvignon and Viognier, in harmony with their philosophy, and after having performed thorough edaphological studies. In each case they have used low vigor and high quality rootstocks and clones, aiming for perfectly balanced vines.
The estate is located between Porrera and Falset, and possesses various characteristics that give it great potential, and which were pivotal in choosing this sub-zone. Indeed, their soils have an unusually high proportion of llicorella, a quality only seen in the top vineyards in the Priorat, and the site is in one of the coolest, steepest and highest elevations of the appellation, factors which contribute to optimal phenolic ripeness and help preserve flavors and acidity. Likewise, the site’s varied aspects create a rich diversity of mesoclimates and bring the opportunity to create wines of particular complexity and depth. This vineyard is managed, moreover, in a way fundamental to the philosophy of Ferrer Bobet: the development of a strict organic viticulture which completely excludes the use of insecticides, fungicides and herbicides.
Their winemaking is based on the principle that fastidious viticulture is the basis for the quality of the wine. They have designed the winery just as meticulously. The building guarantees an optimal work flow and allows the use of gravity during the whole winemaking process, from fruit reception to bottling. They start the vinification selecting berry by berry with a double sorting table. Fermentation takes place in small, 15 and 30 Hl, fermenters, so each vineyard can be vinified individually. Most are oak fermenters, a key factor in improving the wine’s structure and its integration with the oak. Wines are aged in fine-grained French oak barriques during a minimum period of 12 months, and bottled unfined and unfiltered, in order to preserve their organoleptic qualities.
Above all, Ferrer Bobet Priorat, Ferrer Bobet Priorat Vinyes Velles and Ferrer Bobet Selecció Especial aim to show an admiration and respect for the land that has embraced them. The goal of their orthodoxy in vine-growing and winemaking is, precisely, to achieve a purity that surpasses any of the techniques employed, so that whoever tastes our wines will be able to experience the mineral essence, complex and profound, of Priorat, without ever losing any of its freshness, elegance and purity.
Sergi Ferrer is also the founder of an extraordinary wine education center and restaurant in Barcelona, Monvinic.
2016
BLANKbottle "Little William" Syrah
Cape Town, South Africa
Pieter Walser
Pieter Walser is one of the world’s most innovative winemakers and produces some of South Africa’s most coveted wines that you’ve probably never tasted. Pieter crafts unique wine blends, picking about 35 grape varieties from 60 vineyards around the Cape. Each bottling is a unique and delicious snapshot of the vintage and vineyards and expresses BLANKbottle’s one-of-a-kind vinous vision. Each wine is bottled and labelled according to the story behind it and half will never make a re-appearance.
THE STORY OF LITTLE WILLIAM
In January 2016, I was driving back from a tiny little vineyard in the Koue Bokkeveld (Ceres Plateau). Cruising along at the 100km/h speed limit, I came to a very winding stretch of road leading towards the Witzenberg pass. Suddenly, for a split second, I thought I saw something in the middle of the road. I had just come through a super sharp bend and had to jump on the brakes with both feet. When I finally got my 470 000-km-on-the-clock Toyota to stop, there, on the white line in the middle of the road, stood a little blonde boy. I guessed him around a year and a half old. He was in his nappies and had a white T-shirt on, perfectly camouflaged on the white line. Unsure of what to do once I’d taken him out of the road, I thought it a good plan to prompt him and see which direction he takes off in (with myself of course right behind).
About 200 meters further along the road he (we) crossed a little bridge heading towards the other side of the canal. He turned up a dirt road which led to a farmhouse about 300 meters up a hill. Keeping up to his snail-like pace, we arrived at the house more or less 10 minutes later (in my experience with farm dogs, it wouldn’t have been wise to carry him). When the gardener saw us approaching, he called out to a woman at the house and judging by her reaction, she must’ve been his mom and he must’ve been missing for a while.
It was a bit of an emotional and chaotic environment so, knowing he was safe, I just turned around and left without introducing myself.
So each time I present a tasting with Little William wine as part of the line-up, I get the same question: ‘Why is it called, Little William?’ followed almost without fail by: ‘What does the family have to say about you calling a wine, Little William?’ My answer is always the same: ‘I never went back, they don’t even know the wine exists. But I am convinced there will be this one day where I’d be sitting at some local bar in Knysna, drinking a beer all by myself when the young guy next to me turns to me and introduces himself as William from Ceres.’ And I’ll be able to tell him: ‘Eendag, lank, lank gelede het hierdie oom jou lewe gered!’
For 4 years I had the privilege of telling the story of little William. Until last year. When Chapter 2 happened.
In November, we took our youngest son for a minor operation at Panorama Mediclinic, Tygerberg, Cape Town. The lady at reception looked at us with a puzzled look on her face. We later learnt that there had been a mistake on the paperwork and they were under the impression that he was an adult. They had subsequently booked him into an adult ward. The man next to him had drunk a cup of coffee at 6:00am that morning with milk in. His operation therefore had to be postponed and he obviously missed his theatre time slot. He had to wait almost the whole day for the next slot. He and Sebastian eventually left for the theatre at more or less the same time. I went to get us a cup of coffee, and as she always does, Aneen started making conversation with the milk-in-the-coffee guy’s wife. On my return Aneen said: ‘They are from Ceres, tell her the little William story.’ I cringed, thinking: ‘Why would I do that??’ I tried to let her comment slide and filled the awkward silence with useless words. We carried on with the small talk and she ended up telling us that she is a vet and her husband is a farmer. ‘Where do you farm in Ceres?’ I asked. ‘In the Witzenberg mountains, on a farm called Blah-blah-blah,’ she answered.
And, as you’ve probably guessed by now, that was the name of the farm where I dropped little William that morning. It started dawning on me that it might be my Knysna-bar-thing moment happening in a totally bizarre, different way. ‘Do you have a son called William?’ I asked. ‘No,’ she replied, ‘but my nephew is called William and they live on the same farm, in the house next to the road.’ We did the sums and he would’ve been exactly 1 and a half years at the time. So it turns out it wasn’t a beer-in-hand pub in Knysna, but a coffee-in-hand hospital in Cape Town. I should’ve listened to Aneen right from the start… so I told her the whole story and she phoned her sister-in-law. ‘Did you ever lose William on the farm?’ she asked (I don’t think that’s the type of story you volunteer to tell your extended family if not prompted). ‘Yes,’ she said, ‘there was this one day…’
PS: This incident made me think about everyone’s life stories. I’m convinced that these kind of things happen to everyone. The difference is that I just happened to call a wine Little William, and I have a reason to re-tell this story. If I didn’t, I would’ve possibly only re-told the story once or twice, but I can imagine how the finer details could’ve gotten lost between profit margins and VAT. I have a responsibility to convey the story in an honest and factual way. You know how easily a story gets blurry. So each time I drive the road, I recheck my facts: Where exactly did William stand? Distances? The name of the farm? The story then became part of our story. And that day when the lady mentioned Ceres, the first thing Aneen thought about was the boy in the road.
In case you missed it, here's the recording from our August Virtual tasting.
NV
Jeaunaux Robin Éclats de Meulière Extra Brut
CHAMPAGNE, FRANCE
Jeaunaux
Truly a treasure, this tiny family domain was founded in 1964 by Michel & Marie-Claude Jeaunaux and is now run by husband and wife Cyril & Clémence Jeaunaux-Robin. The estate is only 5.7 ha, with vineyards beginning at the end of the family garden, just behind the children’s trampoline, where the grass of the lawn merges into the grass between rows of vines. With the proximity of the vineyards to the family home, it’s no surprise that they’ve been fully biody-namic since 2010 and organic for far longer.
Jeaunaux-Robin is located in the village of Talus Saint-Prix in La Vallée du Petit Morin, so named for the Le Petit Morin river (a tributary of the Marne), at the very southern tip of the Cote des Blancs. The entire village has only 39 ha of vineyards planted on south facing slopes . La Vallée du Petit Morin is known for its flint-rich, silex soil which imparts unmistakable texture and minerality to the wines. Average vine age on the family’s property is 40 years, which is ancient by Champagne standards and only increases the depth and richness of the wines.
Jeaunaux-Robin produces only about 40k bottles in their tiny cellar. There are two basket presses in the garage and grape must flows by gravity into settling tanks under the back door and into the winery beneath the house. Cyril uses old oak barrels to vinify around a quarter of the wines, with malolactic fermenta-tion, with the rest in stainless steel, also with malo.
“I was impressed by these releases from Jeaunaux-Robin, a producer in the Vallée du Petit Morin hitherto unknown to me. Their 5.7 hectares of vines are in the process of organic certification, and around a quarter of the base wines are fermented in used barrels, with the balance vinified in stainless steel. These are intense, flinty wines with the ripeness and concentration to sustain their low dosage, and I look forward to visiting soon.” -William Kelley, Issue #242 Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate - “Champagne: Recent and Forthcoming Releases” April 2019
2018
Bevan Cellars “Dry Stack Vineyard” Sauvignon Blanc
BENNETT VALLEY
Beven Cellars
“Back in 1995, when Victoria and I started dating in Des Moines, our favorite game was “Guess the Wine.” We would take turns bringing a blind wine and make the other person guess the varietal and region. When I look back on those dates, there is little mystery about how we arrived where we are today.
Soon after that, we moved to Minneapolis and fell in with a group of wine lovers whose passion and knowledge fanned our flame. We started taking regular trips to wine country in California, where we met many of the finest winemakers. We were so inspired by them that to this day we follow many of their principles. We learned first-hand about Philip Togni’s attention to every minute detail…. Saw how Bob Foley would only pick fruit if his palate — not some lab test — told him it was time… Heard Greg La Follette telling us how careful you have to be when making decisions in the winery because even the smallest decision has an impact on the final wine. Our conversations still reverberate with me whether I am at a vineyard or in the winery.
Soon enough we were searching for property in our native California. Victoria spent three years trying to find the right site. Finally, she found her dream home on eight acres of land in Bennett Valley, just a few miles from where I grew up. It only took one visit by Kal Showket to plant the seed that led to our estate vineyard. Little did we know that Kal would be key to many of the major changes in our lives from that point on. Later that year, the Showket’s gave us a ton of Cabernet Sauvignon from their best block to see if we would enjoy winemaking.
When that ton of fruit arrived at the winery, we had a dozen friends help us sort the grapes. For fifteen hours we worked, examining each grape by hand and sorting them into three groups: plump and juicy, dimpled, and very ripe. We fermented each batch separately. Tasting the lots two days later, the differences were staggering. The hook was set.” –Russell Bevan and Victoria De Crescenzo
2017
Le Cadeau Diversite Pinot Noir
WILLAMETTE, OR
Le Cadeau
Founders Deb and Tom Mortimer began looking for Willamette Valley property in 1996. A year later they found an uncultivated parcel on the south slope of Parrett Mountain, just a few miles east of Newberg, Oregon, in the Chehalem Mountains AVA.
Ten acres were cleared in 1997 and eleven acres in 1998. An incredible view south to Salem and the Eola hills emerged.
In 1999, six acres of Pinot noir were planted. The initial plantings included roughly 1.75 acres each of Pommard and Dijon clones 667 and 777. A ¾-acre mixed-clone block of Mariafeld (a Swiss Pinot noir clone), Pommard, and Dijon clones 777, 113, and 115 was also planted. Subsequent plantings of Pommard and assorted heritage clones from California increased the size of the vineyard to its current sixteen acres.
From the beginning, the character of Le Cadeau Vineyard was apparent. The aromatics were fresh and intense. The fruit flavors were pure and deep. There were hints of Asian spices mingled with an earthiness not often found in young Pinot noir wines. Those core characteristics remain today, regardless of the vintage or the winemaking.
Truly extraordinary winemakers from Oregon and beyond have collaborated with Le Cadeau and made excellent wines, but increasingly the adage rings true: Great Pinot noir is made in the vineyard. New clones and rootstocks have been added while farming practices have been pushed to ever-higher standards. As we move into our second decade of winegrowing in Oregon’s Willamette Valley, we’re confident that our best wines are yet to come.
Le Cadeau Vineyard is located on the southern tip of Parrett Mountain near Newberg, Oregon, in the Chehalem Mountains AVA. The 16-acre, high-elevation (610’ – 725’) vineyard was developed and planted with the singular focus of growing distinct and complex Pinot noir.
The vineyard has many slope aspects and soil types that result in a range of microclimates. For the most part, the vineyard soil is in the Jory/Nekia/Witzel series, with Witzel (a very shallow, broken basalt) as the predominant type. However, the soil on the east side has considerable organic material resembling a cross between Jory and Willakenzie.
In planting the vineyard, we’ve attempted to match rootstocks and Pinot noir clones to soils, slope aspect, and microclimate. At this time, fourteen clones of Pinot noir are represented among our plantings, along with five rootstocks. Each Le Cadeau cuveé is made from sections of the vineyard that are of specific soil types, slope aspect, and Pinot noir clones.
2017
Domaine Paul Autard Chateauneuf du Pape
France
Jean-Paul Autard
Jean-Paul Autard carries on the tradition established by Paul Autard when he founded the domaine in the village of Courthézon in the 1970’s. He took over very early, at 17 year old, after his father passed away. His daughter Pauline now works with him.
Autard has 26 hectares of vines, of which 12 are in Châteauneuf-du-Pape and 14 in Côtes-du-Rhône (located at the border of the Châteauneuf appellation in Courthézon.) The aging cellar is a massive, vaulted cave cut into sandstone rock, housing the domaine’s barriques. The Autards feel privileged to have inherited a domaine in which the plantations of different varieties are perfectly adapted to the soil types – ranging from galets roulés, pebble and clay, to sandy-clay. They aim to get the most out of each variety by vinifying separately and then blending judiciously. The grapes are destemmed and fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks with indigenous yeasts. After the malolactic fermentation, the wines are transferred to barriques for aging, about one third of which are new for the regular cuvée of Châteauneuf and 100% new for La Côte Ronde and Juline. Since 2004, Jean-Paul has been working in his new state-of-the-art winery, which allows him greatly enhanced control over all phases of winemaking, and a concomitant increase in quality. His unique style, fusing elegance, balance and generously expressive Châteauneuf-du-Pape flavor, has won his wines an international following.
Farming/vinification practices: sustainable farming. Jean-Paul aims to achieve a perfect balance between the soil and the vine. He does not need to green harvest because his vines are on average over 50 year old. The vines’ age, together with the limited use of only organic fertilizer, naturally ensures low yields and concentrated, balanced fruit. No pesticides, chemical anti-rot products or fertilizers are used. The health of the vineyard is ensured by meticulous work by hand, such as the removal in May and June of unessential shoots and leaves that would block the proper aeration of the vines. Jean-Paul is able to eliminate the possibility of problems such as rot and mildew by not allowing humidity to remain on the grapes and leaves. In a few years, he and Pauline will start uprooting some vines to replant 5% to 10% every year. Indigenous yeasts are used most of the time, but inoculation may be required in a difficult vintage. The grapes are 100% destemmed. The wines are vegan.
In case you missed it, here's the recording from our June Virtual tasting.
2017
Henri Gouges Bourgogne Pinot Blanc
BURGUNDY
Henri Gouges
The creation of Domaine Henri Gouges was the culmination of 400 years of family grape farmers, and it is, in many minds, the top domaine in Nuits-Saint-Georges. Henri formed the domaine in 1920 but was soon discouraged with selling the fruit to négociants. He envisioned a better quality wine, and by 1933, he was producing, bottling, and selling directly. He, along with the Marquis d’Angerville from Volnay, was at the forefront of battles against fraud in Burgundy in the 1920s. In the 1930s, Monsieur Gouges was one of the people charged with the job of delineating the crus in Burgundy for the Institut National d’Appellation d’Origine, and he was a member of that regulatory body at its outset. Since the beginning, the domaine has remained an undivided family property. In 1967 Henri’s two sons, Michel and Marcel, succeeded him and added to the holdings of the estate. Each of them handed leadership over to one of their sons to bring the domaine to the next stage. Pierre and Christian began the modernization of the vineyards and the winery, which they have now turned over to Pierre’s son, Gregory, and his cousin, Antoine. While the house style has evolved, the main focus is the better reflection of the terroir in the fruit through organic viticulture. They believe that healthy vines produce quality fruit and thus more expressive terroir-driven wines.
2015
Palacios Remondo "Propiedad" Vina Viejas
RIOJA
Alvaro Palacios
If anyone embodies the promise and spirit of “The New Spain,” it is winemaker Alvaro Palacios. Born into a wine family in Rioja, he now makes wine in three different appellations: Priorat, Bierzo, and his hometown of Alfaro in Rioja. Alvaro’s flagship Priorat wine, L’Ermita, is one of the most coveted wines in all of Spain. Following his great successes in Priorat and Bierzo during the 1990s, and the death of his father in 2000, Alvaro Palacios took the helm of Palacios Remondo, his family’s property and winery in Rioja Baja.
The Palacios Remondo Estate and vineyards are located at high elevations in the eastern part of the region: Rioja Oriental. Historically, Garnacha is the dominant red grape in Rioja Oriental, while Tempranillo and the white grape Viura play supporting roles. Alvaro’s passion for staying true to the tradition of the land inspires him to focus on Garnacha-driven wines that are expressive and authentic to the Eastern Rioja region. La Montesa, Propiedad, Plácet Valtomelloso and La Vendimia are among the very finest of Rioja Oriental, full-bodied wines with aromas of Mediterranean herbs, cherries and nectarines, and flavors of mixed berries and blood oranges on the palate.
Palacios is deeply committed to organic viticulture and natural winemaking practices, such as use of organic fertilizers in the stone-covered, clay soils. All of the wines are unfiltered and clarified only with egg whites. No exogenous yeasts or commercial compounds are added to the wines, and sulfites are kept to minimum levels.
2011
Tolaini Picconero
Tuscany
Pier Luigi Tolaini
Pier Luigi Tolaini, a native of Tuscany, immigrated to Canada in 1956. He planned to work for a few years, make some money, then go back home, buy a farm, marry his high school sweetheart and make some good wine... and not with his feet this time! It took Pierluigi 45 years before he returned with a clear vision of the high quality wine he wanted to make: one of Italy's best, no less. In 1998 he returned to his native land and purchased some of the best land in the region of Chianti Classico in the noted commune of Castelnuovo Berardenga. He constructed, from the roots up, this state-of-the-art winery and brought together the best technology and winemakers to bring to light wines that would be a true expression of this significant region. Pier Luigi hired famed enologist Michel Rolland and Tuscan agronomist Andrea Paoletti, who put together a team that share Pierluigi's vision - to make the best wines possible with one vitally unique ingredient - the terroir of Chianti Classico's southern most commune: Castelnuovo Berardenga . A true marriage of tradition and modern technology. The belief in the "best fruit produces the best wine" is the fundamental principal of the Tolaini estate. High density planting per hectare and low yield per plant is a proven strategy worldwide in producing excellent quality fruit. With up to 8,300 plants per hectare in the less hilly vineyards, drip irrigation for each plant, and two green harvests to pre-select the healthiest and most promising bunches on the vine, the Tolaini property produces fruit of unsurpassable quality. This fruit is evident in every mouthful of the estate's five incredible red wines.
Ruggero Mazzilli is Tolaini's consulting agronomist and is based in Gaiole in Chianti where he is the owner and founder of SPEVIS (The Experimental Station for Sustainable Viticulture). Under Ruggero's supervision Panzano in Chianti became the first Bio-Distretto (Organic District) in the world, immediately followed by San Gimignano and Gaiole in Chianti. SPEVIS works with the best scientific research institutes to find new solutions to practical vineyard issues by following the principles of organic agriculture and respectful environmental practices. With Ruggero as part of the team, Tolaini will continue to cultivate the maximum expression of Chianti Classico terroir while farming organically and sustainably.
Like the vineyards surrounding it, the winery at Tolaini Estate is an expression of both old and new. An optical sorter guarantees that only the healthy whole grapes make it into the fermentation vats. The best grapes from each harvest are fermented in open-top fermenters made of French Allier oak (12 units of 4500 liter capacity), a time-proven touch that increases the complexity in the wines. The generous array of tank sizes allows for individual parcels of grapes to be fermented and stored separately. These batches are kept apart through subsequent barrel aging in new French oak before blending. Today Luca D'Attoma is the consulting oenologist and his hand is apparent starting with the 2015 vintage of Tolaini.
Tolaini wines are known internationally for their impeccable quality and incredible taste. With each new vintage they continue to innovate and impress.
2018
Thibaud Boudignon Anjou Blanc
CHAMPAGNE
Thibaud Boudignon
Thibaud Boudignon is unquestionably one of the most exciting figures in wine today. Originally from Bordeaux, he honed his winemaking craft while working at Philipe Charlopin in Gevrey-Chambertin during the early 2000s. He was shortly thereafter hired by Savennières producer Chateau Soucherie to be their winemaker in the late 2000s. His first and most important contribution to the estate was the introduction of strict organic practices in the vineyards which, along with his immense winemaking skills, elevated this already historic domaine to new heights. It was in 2009 that he began to make wine under his own name from a scant 3.5 ha in the heart of Anjou and Savennieres. Knowing that the quality of his fruit was of most importance, he committed himself absolutely to the health of his vines, choosing to farm organically and spend the majority of his time in the vineyards. His devotion paid off quickly, for in just a few vintages, his name began to circulate among Loire growers, eventually to top restaurants in Paris, and finally overseas. The speed at which he has garnered so much praise speaks to the remarkable quality of his wines.
2020
Ochota Barrels Texture Like Sun
NAPA VALLEY
Ochota Barrels
The Ochota Barrels tale began on a surf trip, late 2000 along the Mexican west coast in a Volkswagen campervan. A final destination after traveling some of the world’s best wine and surf regions, Taras and Amber Ochota conceived the idea to make super premium wines back home in South Australia. The concept was to concentrate on the zenith variety of Mclaren Vale (Grenache) and the Barossa Valley (Shiraz), find an exceptional old vineyard site in each region and create plush, small batch, single vineyard wines. With the winery situated in Lenswood, and steep, high altutude, cool climate, north facing Burgundian cloned Chardonnay over a rock base of quartz and ironstone, at 1,800 feet above sea level......hello!!!?
As an Oenology graduate from Adelaide University, Taras developed his craft at wineries such as Two Hands and MSV in the Barossa Valley, renowned for world class Shiraz, Grenache and Mataro. Prior to this, Taras was at Nepenthe in the Adelaide Hills, who have achieved numerous accolades such as ‘Best Chardonnay in the World’ at the London International Wine Fair.
More recently he worked as the European Flying Winemaker, concentrating on the Italian regions, Puglia and Sicily, for the Swedish wine importing company, Oenoforos.
California has also been a regular vintage destination of his, making wines with producers such as Kunin, Bonnacorsi, Arcadian, Schrader, Outpost and the famous Hitching Post’s label, Hartley-Ostini, from the movie ‘Sideways’.
2016
Michel Niellon Chassagne Montrachet Clos St Jean 1er Cru Rouge
BURGUNDY
Michel Niellon
Michel Niellon, who began working with his father Marcel in the 1950's, has crafted more than 50 vintages of extraordinary wines. The father-son team began domaine-bottling in the 1960’s and soon after, their 4-hectare estate was considered one of the very best in the village. Since 1991, Michel has shared vineyard and winemaking duties with his son-in-law, Michel Coutoux. Recently, Michel’s grandson Mathieu Bresson joined the winery as well. Today the winery has 7.5 hectares of vines, all in Chassagne-Montrachet. “We plow the vineyards for weed control and don’t use herbicides. For pest and mildew control, we practice lutte raisonnée,” explains Coutoux.
Niellon does not like to wait too long before harvesting the grapes: it is preferable, he says to pick earlier rather than later. “We take acidity into consideration first. Often we are the first in the village to pick at harvest time,” Niellon. Fermentations happen spontaneously in stainless steel tanks. After the primary fermentation, the wine is moved to barrels for malolactic and aging. About 25% of the barrels are new and the total amount of new oak ranges from 20-30% depending on the cuvée. Niellon is a benchmark producer in the village of Chassagne and the wines have a classic style, expressing the terroir of each vineyard, striking a balance of crisp minerality with rich and ripe fruit.
2017
Domaine Des 3 Cellier Alchimie Châteauneuf-du-Pape
SOUTHERN RHÔNE, FRANCE
Domain des 3 Cellier
Domaine des 3 Cellier is like many of the best estates in the Southern Rhone, a family affair. In fact, Domaine de Cellier takes its name from the three brothers running the estate, Ludovic Celliers, Julien Celliers and Benoit Celliers.
However, while Domaine des 3 Cellier is a new estate in Chateauneuf du Pape, (Their debut vintage was in 2007) the Celliers family has been active in making wine for 8 generations!
Domaine des 3 Cellier was born when another Chateauneuf du Pape was split up, Domaine Saint Benoit in 2007. Domaine Saint Benoit was split into two parts with 50% of the property going into Domaine l’Or de Line and the remaining portion was used to create Domaine des 3 Cellier.
Domaine des 3 Cellier owns 13.4 hectares of vines in the Châteauneuf du Pape appellation. The vineyards are farmed with an aim to completely embrace sustainable farming techniques. On average, the vines are close to 45 years of age. Their vineyards are planted to 68% Grenache, 11% Mourvedre, 7% Syrah, 4% Clairette, 3% Counoise, 3% Terret Noir, and 2% Vaccarese for the red wines.
For the grapes used to produce their white wine, the vineyards are planted to 100% Roussanne.
NV
A.R. Lenoble “Terroir” Brut Rose
CHAMPAGNE
AR Lenoble
AR Lenoble is one of the rare houses in Champagne that has remained 100% family-owned since its foundation. Armand-Raphaël Graser, a native of Alsace, arrived in Champagne in 1915 in the middle of the first world war. He purchased a house that was built in 1772 in the village of Damery, located between Epernay and Hautvillers, and started making champagne there in 1920. Anne and Antoine Malassagne, sister and brother, are the great-grandchildren of founder Armand-Raphaël Graser. Anne took over from her father in 1993 and was joined by her brother Antoine in 1996.
AR Lenoble has always been 100% independent since it was founded in 1920, nearly 100 years ago! Not a single investor or shareholder of any kind has ever been involved in the business. This enables AR Lenoble to guarantee complete stability and coherency in the strategy of the house.
Antoine Malassagne, is the fourth generation to completely own and manage AR Lenoble. His first vintage was 1996. He made the decision to start conserving their reserve wines in 225-litre barrels using the principle of the “perpetual reserve” . A few years later, they invested in 5,000-litre casks to allow for an ageing process that was slower than in barrels. In these containers, reserve wines were able to obtain additional brightness and freshness.
Rose Terroirs is a blended Rose made with roughly 90% Chardonnay from Chouilly, Grand Cru from the Cote des Blancs and 10% de-stemmed Pinots Noirs from Bisseuil, Premier Cru from the Montagne de Reims. This champagne is one of the very rare Roses to combine elegance with the richness of red fruit aromas. The secret is a unique, highly original blend of roughly 90% Chardonnay Grand Cru and 10% Pinot Noir Premier Cru vinified as a red wine. Thanks to its unique blend our Rose champagne combines the power of the red-fruit aromas so typical of the Bisseuil Terroir with the elegance of the Chouilly Terroir.
2013
Stony Hill Chardonnay
NAPA VALLEY
Stony Hill Vineyard
The original Stony Hill Vineyard, located in Napa’s Spring Mountain AVA, was purchased by Fred and Eleanor McCrea back in the early 1940s. The first vines were planted in 1948 and by 1954 the couple already had a reputation for crafting fine Napa wines.
Fred and Eleanor took the original Chardonnay cuttings from the Wente vineyard in Livermore in 1948. The winery did one major Chardonnay replanting, in 1986, making the average age of their current vineyards approximately 30 years old.
When Fred passed in the late 1970s, assistant winemaker Mike Chelini took the winemaking reins, and he’s held on tight to those ropes for over 40 years now. The bulk of the business remains in the family, with Fred and Eleanor’s son and daughter-in-law, Peter and Willinda, running the day-to-day operations and with their daughter, Sarah, taking over as president as of 2011.
If Stony Hill wines had to be characterized in one word, it would be balance. The McCrea family aims to achieve a balance between the intensely flavored fruit from its hillside vineyards and the notable acidity that gives the wine structure and the aging potential for which it's been known for more than five decades. The winery's goal is simply to translate the intense fruitiness of our grapes into elegant, food friendly wines. To that end, grapes are crushed and pressed with minimum skin contact and fermented in neutral oak cooperage. The wine is aged in neutral oak barrels, most of which are over ten years old, allowing the wine to develop and mature without absorbing an oak flavor component that could mask the natural fruit flavors.
2013
Dominico Clerico "Pajana" Barolo DOCG
PIEDMONT
Domenico Clerico
Domenico Clerico is one of the most well-respected legends in Barolo and his wines have long been celebrated for their extraordinary richness and striking aromatics. The estate is situated in Monforte d’Alba, right in the heart of Barolo, with outstanding vineyard holdings in four of the greatest crus of Monforte: Ginestra, Pajana, Mosconi, and Bussia. When Domenico first embarked on his great wine adventure in 1976, his priority was working among the vines, convinced that in order to make great wine one must care for the vineyard with love and dedication.
His passion and love for the land resulted in wines of the highest quality and exceptional character. Sadly, he passed away in July of 2017 after years of battling brain cancer. Though he has passed, his legend lives on and his strong winemaking team is only improving on what Domenico mastered. The estate is best known for his Nebbiolo based wines, however Domenico’s expression of both Dolcetto and Barbera are among the greatest wines made from these grape varietals.
Oscar Arrivabene now stands at the helm of the vineyards and cellar, having worked side by side with Domenico for the past five years. Working in some of the most coveted wine regions and cellars throughout Italy, Oscar has brought his knowledge and experience from outside of Piedmont and has helped to make significant adjustments and improvements in the winery and vineyards. As a team over the past years, Domenico and Oscar brought the wines to a level they have never been before. Today, as Oscar takes the winery forward, he carries on Domenico’s vision and dream of making pure wines that fully express the true character and potential of the land.
Clerico’s Barolos have been routinely outstanding (90 points or more), including topping Wine Spectator’s 2011 Top 100 Wines of the Year, with the Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra 2006 coming in at No. 8.
Aged for 16 months barrique, constant tastings to select the best barrique, then assembling barrel. 16 months in barrel (50hL), 2+ years in bottle.
2018
Domaine Huet Moelleux Le Mont
VOUVRAY, FRANCE
Domaine Huet
Since its founding in 1928, Vouvray’s Domaine Huet has been the standard-bearer for great, age-worthy Chenin Blanc. And to this day, year after year, the estate produces some of the world’s most compelling white wines—and in a remarkable range that spans sparkling, dry, semi-dry, and breathtaking dessert styles.
Today, Domaine Huet may be making its most consistently great wines. As was one of the earliest adopters of biodynamic practices, and with years of experience working with the appellation's greatest terroirs, winemaker Jean-Bernard Berthome and his team are achieving a fascinating level of transparency, purity, and knife-edged balance in the wines.
Chenin Blanc has been identified with Vouvray since at least the 9th century, and many of its great vineyards were known by the 14th century. By those standards, the 80-year-old Huet estate is relatively young. Yet it was this youngster that established, once and for all, that Vouvray was capable of world-class quality.
The domaine’s founder, Victor Huët, was a Parisian bistro owner. However, with lungs and nerves shattered by his experiences in WWI, Victor re-settled to the town of Vouvray in France’s beautiful Loire Valley. He soon purchased the first of his great vineyards, Le Haut-Lieu, in 1928, and Domaine Huet was born.
Victor’s son Gaston (born 1910) worked with his father from the beginning, and assumed full charge by 1937. With an obsessive devotion to quality, and an engaging showman’s personality, Gaston built the Huet legacy over the next 55 years, despite spending five years in a German POW camp during World War II.
For all his salesmanship, Gaston understood clearly that quality must come first—and that quality started with great vineyards. His Haut-Lieu parcel, which lies on Vouvray’s “Première Côte” (or “first slope”), is home to virtually all of the appellation’s acknowledged grand cru vineyards.
As the estate prospered in the post-WWII era, Gaston secured two additional prime vineyards on the Première Côte that would ensure the domaine’s stature: Le Mont (purchased in 1957) and Clos du Bourg (farmed since 1953, purchased in 1963). Collectively, these three vineyards, and the wines made from them, account for Huet being the greatest of all Vouvray producers.
For many insiders, the argument over Vouvray’s greatest vineyard comes down to two sites: Le Mont and Clos du Bourg. Indisputably a grand cru vineyard, Le Mont enjoys a choice site on the Première Côte. With less clay and more stone than Le Haut-Lieu, Le Mont yields young wines of intense minerality. With age, the wines develop great length and finesse.
Purchased in 1957, Le Mont lies on the esteemed Premiere Côte. With less clay and more stone than Le Haut-Lieu, Le Mont yields young wines of intense minerality. The wines are the estate's most reticent, but develop the strongest perfume with age.
The estate produces Sec, Demi-Sec, Moelleux, or Moelleux 1ère Trie (“first selection”) from any of the three principal vineyards. The translation of “moelleux” is sweet, soft, tender, smooth and mellow, and is used to refer to a wine that’s only slightly sweet.
2018
Rene Rostaing "Ampodium"
COTE ROTIE
Rene Rostaing
The story of the resurgence of the Northern Rhone has parallels to other now iconic wine regions - perhaps Piedmont most notably - that for many years languished in semi-obscurity among wine's cognoscenti. Like Barolo, the Northern Rhone was barely a blip in the greater wine world’s consciousness by the post-WWII era. During that time, historic vineyards were abandoned, or only worked on weekends while their owners made their living in nearby factories, or in other agriculture. It was only in the 1980s, as Guigal’s single-vineyard wines began to gain attention, that money began to return to this fabled region.
Of course, many growers returning to full-time winemaking brought with them modern winemaking tools and techniques. And, in rejecting the often-flawed wines of their poorer elders, they also lost much of the singular identity that classical heritage could tease from their “roasted slopes.” Inspired by the so-called fashions of the day, wines became cleaner, darker, oakier – and less uniquely Côte Rôtie (or Cornas, or Hermitage, for that matter).
Yet a few estates flatly rejected modernism and held true to Côte Rôtie’s historic character and techniques. So today, as collectors rediscover the glories of Marius Gentaz and his contemporaries, just a handful of estates - including Domaine Jamet and Domaine Rostaing – are making wines that evoke that earlier era.
The Rostaing estate dates to 1971 when René Rostaing– a Notary by trade – began tending a few plots of family vineyards. He had the perfect role model to guide him into a career of classical winemaking: Marius Gentaz, his uncle. Over the next few years, René took advantage not only of his uncle’s mentoring, but of historically low vineyard prices, to acquire a prized half acre each in the Côte Blonde and La Landonne lieux-dits.
And when he married, he acquired a second traditional role model, his father-in-law, Albert Dervieux. Dervieux retired in 1989 and Gentaz followed four years later, giving René a further ten acres of very old vines in some of the appellation’s top sites. This treasury of vineyards launched René’s estate into the stratosphere. The vineyard expansion also enabled René to quit his day job and to devote himself full time to winemaking. Over the next 25+ years, he crafted a sequence of masterful wines that honored the legacy of his illustrious forebearers.
In 2015, René’s son, Pierre, took the reins at an estate that boasts 20+ acres of some the finest vineyards in and around Côte Rôtie. Having grown up with tutelege of classical wines from this revered appellation, he has maintained his father’s deep reverence for Côte Rôtie’s traditions. Pierre was also able to experiment further through stages in Washington, California and in France.
In the vineyards, obviously all the work has to be done painstakingly by hand, given the steepness of the slopes. At harvest, the Rostaings endeavor to obtain mature fruit, but never to a degree of over-ripeness. For example, if you’re looking for 2003 or 2009 Northern Rhônes with no hint of sur-maturité, there are no better choices than Rostaing Côte Rôties.
In the cellar, René was never afraid to use technology if it would help him make even more authentic Côte Rôtie. So, in the late 1990s, René acquired horizontal, rotary fermentation tanks, though not for the same purpose as virtually everyone else. While modernists—most famously in Barolo—adopted these tanks to speed fermentations and capture more color and fruit, René adopted them to mimic the long, gentle macerations of his ancestors. The process has much the same effect as the cappello sommerso employed by many of Piedmont’s staunchest traditionalists, with the tanks often making just a single rotation per day, and total macerations lasting often 3-4 weeks
The Rostaings use up to 100% of the stems - believing they contribute to Côte Rôtie’s ineffable perfume as well as they texture and complexity that they provide. The wines enjoy a fairly long élevage in a mix of barrels and demi-muids so that no more than 10-15% of a given vintage sees new wood.
In sum, the Rostaing wines are among the very best of classic Côte Rôtie. They are wines of consistency and sophistication that are true to their origins. And with Pierre Rostaing now in day-to-day control, the future for this estate has never looked brighter.
The flagship red, Ampodium (formerly known as “Classique”), is assembled from parcels throughout Côte Rôtie. It is a terrific expression of the appellation, and by itself can rival some of the appellations best.
Traditional vinification, including wild yeast fermentation. Grapes are generally not destemmed. Maceration can vary from 7-20 days depending on vintage. Aged in a mix of 225 and 500 liter barrels (about 7% new).
2018
Barnett Vineyards Cabernet Franc
SPRING MOUNTAIN, NAPA
Barnett Vineyards
Having grown up in Vancouver and Stockton respectively, Fiona and Hal Barnett became enamored with Napa Valley through frequent visits on the weekends. A vision began to form and they decided to purchase a 40-acre property located at the top of Spring Mountain Road in 1983. The first Cabernet Sauvignon vines were planted the following year with the intent of producing small amounts of hand-crafted wines that would showcase the unique characteristics found in grapes cultivated on such challenging, high elevation terrain.
David Tate has been the winemaker at Barnett Vineyards for twelve complete vintages, beginning with 2007. Prior to working with Barnett, David was the assistant winemaker at Ridge Vineyards for five years atop Montebello in the Santa Cruz Mountains; his years with Ridge laid the groundwork for David's commitment to quality and understanding of what it takes to produce premium, world-class wine with a sense of place.
Due to the estate’s low yielding vineyard, it is critical to hand-harvest the vineyard vine-by-vine to ensure each cluster is picked at optimal ripeness. This manual work is additionally challenging on a 35º slope that is not conducive to any normal farm equipment.
To preserve the integrity of each individual vineyard block, the grapes are fermented separately in small batches. The “must” is punched down several times a day utilizing traditional techniques. This process maximizes the extended skin to juice contact providing added richness, flavor concentration, aromatics, and deep color extraction, while allowing the tannin levels to be micro-managed.
Only French oak barrels are used, with a preference to use between 65% and 100% new oak barrels and the balance being one to four year old barrels.
The majority of the vineyards are terraced on slopes that are 30 degrees or more. The original estate vines are over 30 years old and are planted on a 6x10 foot grid. In the past few years much of the original vineyard has undergone redevelopment and now vines are spaced at 4x4 feet. The topography is so steep and the plantings are so closely spaced that traditional farming methods such as tractors and disking are not possible. These vineyards are completely farmed by hand from bud break until harvest. The coastal fog, which covers the Napa valley floor many mornings during the growing season, seldom reaches the top of Spring Mountain thus giving our vineyards several hours of additional sunlight each day. The elevation keeps our temperatures an average of 8-10 degrees cooler all year which further results in later bud break and harvest than vineyards located at lower elevations.
NV
Pierre Péters “Cuvee de Reserve” Brut
CHAMPAGNE, FRANCE
Rodolphe Péters
Rodolphe Péters took over the reins of this venerable estate in the southern Côte des Blancs in 2008, becoming the fourth generation to lead since the estate was founded in 1919, under the name Camille Péters. Today, Rodolphe holds 18 hectares of vineyards, predominantly in the grand cru of Les Mesnil-sur-Oger. Péters owns small holdings in several other grand crus (Oger, Avize and Cramant) but Les Mesnil-sur-Oger is where 45 of the 63 parcels he farms are located.
“For more than forty years, a mere percentage point separated Le Mesnil from Grand Cru status, and it wasn’t until 1985 that the promotion came, even though many saw the village as the best of them all. Those grapes which grow in a belt at a height of 160-220 meters provide the most elegant champagnes the world has tasted. The cru has a very Special Chardonnay clone which gives a penetrating bouquet even when the actual content in a cuvée is small. Mesnil’s wines are often shy and acidic when young only to explode in a burst of colour and sensational pleasures.
The always smiling and tremendously skillful François Péters controls 17.5 hectares, twelve of which lie in the very best parts of Le Mesnil. For several years grapes from the [80-year] old vines in Les Chétillons were included in the vintage wine, but nowadays they make a Cuvée Spéciale from grapes from this unique location. . . . The enthusiasm over this wine all over the world is huge—and that’s before anyone has had a chance to taste a mature bottle. Mesnil’s wines take a long time to mature, but champagne from Peters offers from the start an accessible fruitiness that resembles tangerine and a large portion of butterscotch and nut aromas. With age they become majestic and deep as a water well, full of coffee and walnut aromas and a fleeting vibrant exotic fruitiness. Pierre Péters is a hidden treasure of Champagne . . . and the prices are laughable considering the quality of the wines.”
-Richard Juhlin, 4000 Champagnes
“These are sleek, racy champagnes, expressing a classic character of Côte des Blancs chardonnay. They are marked by their fine acidity and prominent minerality, yet while they are always brisk and chalky, they are rarely austere, with the possible exception of certain vintages of the Cuvée Spéciale. All of the wines go through malolactic, due to their naturally high acidities. “We have a lot of acidity and a lot of minerality in all our wines,” says Rodolphe Péters. “We want to build the structure of our wines around both acidity and minerality, not acidity alone.
2017
Lignier-Michelot, Chambolle-Musigny, Vieilles Vignes
BURGUNDY, FRANCE
Lignier-Michelot
Domaine Lignier-Michelot has been part of the landscape of Morey St. Denis since early in the twentieth century, but like so many of its neighbors throughout the Côte d’Or, during most of that time the domaine was content to sell off its entire production to négociants. The current head of this fine eight hectare domaine, Virgile Lignier, who joined his father Maurice at the domaine in 1992, is the fourth generation to run the family property, and was instrumental in the family beginning to offer their wines for sale in bottle. Not coincidently, 1992 was the first year that Domaine Lignier-Michelot began to estate bottle their wines and sell them directly. In the late 1990s Virgile succeeded his father as head of the domaine, with 2000 being the first vintage that he vinified completely on his own. Lignier-Michelot has holdings in Chambolle-Musigny and Gevrey-Chambertin at the villages level, a Morey St. Denis “Rue de Vergy” (also AC) and a bevy of top-notch Morey premier crus including parcels in the vineyards of Aux Charmes, Chenevery and Façonnières. Their fine lineup is rounded out by a parcel of vines in the grand cru of Clos de la Roche, bringing the domaine’s production to approximately one thousand cases per year.
Monsieur Lignier is blessed with a number of old vine parcels scattered throughout his holdings in these three villages. They include a parcel of fifty year-old vines in Chambolle-Musigny from which they make their Chambolle “Vieilles Vignes” bottling, and all three premier cru Moreys, whose vines are all in the fifty-five to sixty year-old range. There is a section of their Clos de la Roche that is in forty year-old vines, but the lion’s share is planted on fifteen year-old vines that are just now beginning to really come into their own. With careful husbandry in the vineyard and short pruning in the winter, Virgile is able to produce a wine of great depth and complexity from these younger vines, so that the domaine’s Clos de la Roche is regularly ranked amongst the very finest examples of this great grand cru.
Virgile Lignier is meticulous in the vineyards, where he routinely prunes aggressively to limit yields, and seeks to be as natural as possible when confronting viticultural challenges in the vineyard. His goal is that which was often stated by Henri Jayer: to produce the finest fruit possible from which to work with so that the wine can make itself as much as is possible. He completely de-stems the grapes and allows the cool must to macerate for five or six days prior to the onset of fermentation (again, à la Monsieur Jayer). The wines are then aged in varying percentages of new oak for a year to fifteen months (village wines see about twenty percent new wood, premier crus about one-third, and the Clos de la Roche is raised in anywhere from eighty to one hundred percent new oak, depending on the quality of the vintage), racked into tank for another three months to allow the wines to fall brilliant, and are bottled unfined and unfiltered.
The style of the Lignier-Michelot wines is dramatic and opulent, with sappy cores of fruit, excellent expressions of terroir, and the balance and structure to allow graceful aging in the cellar. The very fine village Gevrey and Chambolle are delicious out of the blocks, as both wines share a purity of fruit and just the right amount of oak. The Morey St. Denis “Rue de Vergy” hails from a beautifully situated vineyard up above the grand cru Clos de Tart on the slope. The Chambolle “Vieilles Vignes” bottling is deeper and more structured than the straight Chambolle AC, with premier cru depth and complexity coupled to an almost creamy palate impression in generous vintages. All three Morey premier crus are classic examples, with a fleshy personality, lovely depth of black fruit, complex expressions of soil, and the ability to both delight the palate early and age well for ten to fifteen years. Of the three, the Façonnières is probably the most age-worthy and in need of at least a few years of bottle age prior to drinking. Virgile Lignier’s Clos de la Roche is one of the benchmark examples of the vineyard, with a sumptuous palate impression and a fine expression of soil nicely framed by a judicious framing of toasty oak. It ages extremely well, but seldom demands more than five or six years of cellaring before really blossoming and beginning to drink brilliantly. All in all this is one of the top domaines in Morey St. Denis. The relatively recent history of selling all their production in bottle has kept the domaine’s profile relatively low key at the present time, which translates into outstanding opportunities for good value.
2016
Nervi Gattinara
PIEDMONT DOCG, ITALY
Nervi
Nervi is a historic, benchmark Gattinara producer possessing some of the most prized vineyard holdings in all of the appellation. The winery was founded in 1906 by Italo Nervi and is the oldest Cantina in Gattinara, though many of the vineyards had already been in the family dating back as far as 1679. The estate comprises 28.5 hectares of vineyards including their top crus of Molsino and Valferana as well as Garavoglie and Casacce. These are historic crus in Gattinara – mentions of Molsino in town records date as far back as 1471 and those of Valferana date back to 1231!
The Nervi family built up the reputation of the estate, running it continually until 1991 when a steel magnate named Germano Bocciolone purchased the estate. Twenty years later, a group of Norwegian investors led by a passionate wine collector, Erling Astrup, purchased the winery. Astrup endeavored to push the level of quality at Nervi and sought out advice from his longtime friend Roberto Conterno. In 2018, the group decided to sell the winery and, wanting to see it fall into good hands, felt it was best to offer it first to Roberto Conterno. While Roberto had not been actively seeking out a new winery, the opportunity to acquire such an historic estate with great vineyard holdings of Nebbiolo was too hard to pass up. Roberto’s aim, along with his sons, is to apply the same fastidious attention to detail and quality to the wines of Nervi as he does to those of the Giacomo Conterno estate. The wines are already traditional, pure and age-worthy and they are surely only going to get better from here!
Gattinara was awarded DOC status in 1967, and later upgraded to DOCG in 1990. According to David Lynch and Joe Bastianich’s book, Vino Italiano, “Gattinara represents the purest expression of the northern [Piedmont] zones.” The soil in Gattinara is composed largely of volcanic gravel – remnants of an extinct super volcano which collapsed 280 million years ago. The gravel is rich in minerals (iron, zinc, magnesium and manganese) and clay. This volcanic soil imbues a distinct minerality which sets them apart from the neighboring appellations of Ghemme, Lessona and Bramaterra.
The winery focuses on three Gattinara bottlings – Gattinara, Gattinara Molsino and Gattinara Valferana. The single-vineyard bottlings contain the best fruit from those vineyards whereas the third bottling contains the best fruit from Garavoglie and Casacce as well as some wine declassified from Molsino and Valferana. The Gattinara spends a minimum of 3 years in large oak whereas both crus see at least four years in large oak. In addition the three Gattinara, they make a delicious rosato from Nebbiolo with a touch of Uva Rara
2018
Jean-Philippe Fichet, Rully Blanc
Burgundy
Jean-Philippe Fichet
In the early 19th century, Meursault was esteemed above all other Burgundy villages for its white wines—a respect rooted in the unparalleled diversity of its soils. But later in the same century, the rise of Puligny Montrachet, Chassagne Montrachet and Corton Charlemagne pushed Meursault from the limelight.
Today, Meursault is back on top, and a new generation of winemakers is capitalizing on its diverse soils to make some of Burgundy’s most exciting white wines. “Expression” is the order of the day, and wines of unprecedented individuality are emerging from such cellars as Comtes Lafon, Guy Roulot and Arnaud Ente. But there is one other important winemaker pointing the way to the future: Jean-Philippe Fichet.
Fichet’s work is a direct outgrowth of a breakthrough that happened three decades ago: René Lafon’s decision to bottle his Meursault “Clos de la Barre” on its own. For a century before, such a thing had been unheard of, as only the most famous vineyards—the premier crus—were ever bottled individually; everything else was blended into Meursault villages.
Lafon’s innovation not only proved that a lieu-dit (a non-classified vineyard) could say something profound, it drew attention to Meursault’s incredible soils—paving the way for the later accomplishments of Jean-Françoise Coche, Jean-Marc Roulot and, of course, René Lafon’s son Dominique. But Fichet has carried Lafon’s revolution to another level—studying every square inch of earth and stone in his domaine, to make Meursault’s purest set of single-climat wines.
Even if uneconomical, Fichet would rather produce a very small amount of wine from his best sites than to lose their unique character in a blend. In 1998, his Meursault-Tesson vines yielded little more than four barrels; anyone else would have blended so little wine into their village cuvée. But the Tesson was so magical that Fichet bottled it separately, exclusively in magnum.
Just as Jean-Marc Roulot did until recently, Fichet has flown largely under the world’s radar. He began as a grower in 1981 but was forced to rebuild his domaine from scratch in the 1990s, having lost all his best fruit sources—including a piece of Meursault-Perrières—for lack of long-term contracts. But he learned from this experience. By 2000, he had used carefully negotiated long-term fermageand mètayage agreements to create an extraordinary new domaine, brimming with exceptional sites.
Fichet’s methods reflect his philosophy: he is famously meticulous and abhors taking short cuts. His low yields, the foremost key to quality, are achieved through severe winter pruning rather than by green harvesting. And he believes his wines’ expressiveness is enhanced through a patient 18-month élevage, with little new oak and by avoiding aggressive lees stirring.
The wines that Jean-Philippe Fichet is making today have few rivals for their class in Burgundy, and they could be unmatched in their transparency and expressiveness.
Jean-Philippe Fichet is one of Burgundy’s greatest talents—and his wines are every bit as extraordinary as he is.
2018
Occhipinti Il Frappato
SICILY
Occhipinti
Occhipinti is located in the Vittoria region of southeastern coast of Sicily between the Mediterranean Sea and inland mountains. Owner, winemaker and viticulturist Arianna Occhipinti founded the estate in 2004, bottled her first commercial vintage in 2006 and today works exclusively with estate fruit. Her 25 hectares are certified-organic and practicing biodynamic and feature only native Sicilian varietals: 50% Frappato, 35% Nero d'Avola and 15% white varieties Albanello and Zibibbo (aka Muscat of Alexandria). The Frappato and Nero d'Avola vines range from 10-year-old guyot-trained vines which she planted all the way up to 60-year-old alberello-trained vines which she rented initially and was later able to add her holdings. Total production is approximately 10,000 cases annually.
Arianna started at age 16 in her uncle Giusto Occhipinti's cellar--he being the proprietor of Vittoria's most famous winery, COS--and loved it, enough to go to oenology school and to jump right into her own production. She began with a mere one hectare of abandoned vines attached to a family vacation house. Though university imparted technical knowledge of a sort, the main influence on her ways in vineyard and cellar was in fact her uncle, who raised his wines as well as his niece on organic viticulture, harvest by hand and native-yeast fermentations, none of which is typical of Sicily's bulk-driven wine production. In Arianna's own words: "Not irrigating, harvesting late and not using fertilizers are the secret to making more elegant wines in the area. The freshness and minerality in my wines come from the subsoils. Any wine made from young vines or chemically grown vines feeding only off of the top soil will have the cooked, hot characteristics people associate with wine from warm regions."
There was never any doubt in Arianna's mind about whether to pursue this natural approach in order to express the freshness of the Vittorian microclimate, the minerality of the chalky soils and the purity of the best local grape varieties. She made a number of other significant choices in pursuit of this balance. The farming is biodynamic. There is zero irrigation in her vineyards in this hot, windy climate. Cover crops including fava beans and other useful plants grow between every other row. New plantings are massale selections only. Juice and wine are moved only by gravity. There is no new oak. Her flagship SP68 wines (white and red blends named for the nearby main road) are vinified and aged in small concrete tanks, with no oak of any kind and no punchdowns. The red is in all but name her version of a Cerasuolo di Vittoria, the DOCG blend of Frappato and Nero d'Avola; she eschews the DOCG designation in favor of shorter aging for a fresher take on this regional signature. And for her next level of longer-aged wines from older vines, a pure Frappato and her 100%-Nero d'Avola Siccagno, there is no new oak--the use of which has been an attempt by some Sicilian producers to add a sense of gravitas to their wines for the international wine market--and the most gentle handling.
Arianna's star has risen very quickly over the last decade in the wine world, and she is rightly regarded as a symbol of success in the world of biodynamic farming and natural winemaking. She has remained committed to those principles, while evolving from her originally more dogmatic outlook. Below is her response to importer Jules Dressner's question about her feelings on the term "natural wine":
"I make natural wine, but this is a term I'm beginning to be less and less comfortable with, because its implications are very complicated. I really want to stress that my main goal is to make a good wine that reflects where it comes from, and for me the only way to successfully do this is to make the wine naturally. When I first started, people were just starting to talk about natural wine. It was very important to me to think about all these issues , and in those early years I definitely had a more militant attitude about it. Making natural wine was a mission, something worth fighting for. Now that I've grown up a little bit, the mission is making wine of terroir. You have to respect the vineyards, and nature in general. When I wake up in the morning, I want to feel free. Making this wine is my opportunity to feel free. So again, my goal is not to make natural wine, working this way is a process to make good wine."
2016
An Approach to Relaxation "Sucette" Old Vine Sand Grown Grenache
Vine Vale, Australia
An Approach to Relaxation
(From the voice and personalities of Carla and Richard Betts)
We are two Americans, living in Amsterdam, making wine in Australia...
Makes a ton of sense, right?
Whelp, when you travel approximately 250 days a year, you can pretty much make your home anywhere there's a great airport, and Amsterdam is a stellar town. So then, why do we make the huge trek down to South Australia?
Because we own one of the oldest Grenache vineyards on the planet (The Rza Block), and are super passionate about sharing what we make with the world. But before we get into all that, a little bit about us...
While Richard was catching lizards & crashing bikes in the desert, Carla was wrangling horses & waves in California.
Who knew they’d someday collide in a flurry of light, rivaling Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid as the finest accomplices to roam the land?
Their paths took them separately through all sorts of twists & turns; Carla to NYU for acting & Richard nearly became an attorney (that would have been very bad.)
Anyways, eventually they figured out that you can have a damn fine time (& make a living!) throwing a good party, thus, they found their way to wine.
Carla served the stuff up at some tony joints in NYC for a while (The Spotted Pig, The Breslin, The John Dory Oyster Bar), while Richard found the dearth of oxygen & excess of disposable income in Aspen more suitable to his wine service.
Then, on one hot, muddy & muggy afternoon they found themselves in the same park at the same time &, well, Carla was wearing this hot pink tank top & pouring excessive quantities of sherry, & that was it. Boom. They were on their way to the sun.
After banging around the solar system for a while they realized they needed gas money or at least a break on the wine, so they asked themselves ‘how do we make our own supply from which to get high?’ Whelp, turns out they both love the same wines & Richard had a little experience making this & that, so they headed to OZ to make some dee-lish hooch, & that’s what this site is all about. After all, Wine is a Grocery, Not a Luxury.
2016
Alpha Estate Florina Syrah-Xinomavro-Merlot
MACEDONIA, GREECE
Alpha Estate
Alpha Estate is located in the heart of the Amyndeon, a wine region in the Northwest of Greece. The estate's vineyards cover over 160 acres situated on a plateau around 2,000 feet above sea level. Moderate temperatures and heavy winter rains create ideal conditions for the grapes to ripen. Poor soils with good drainage create a mild water deficit, resulting in small berries with intense red color and concentrated flavors and aromas.
Alpha Estate is presided over by Angelo Iatridis, considered by many to be Greece's most promising winemaker. Angelo cultivates international varieties as well as indigenous Greek varieties, and all the wines are crafted in Alpha's state-of-the-art gravity-flow winery. Alpha is considered one of the most cutting edge producers in Greece and has established the most technologically advanced vineyards in the viticulture world. They always strive for precision grape-growing and focused terrior-driven wines that are bold and exciting.
In case you missed it, here's the recording from our November Virtual tasting.
2018
Scribe Winery Skin Fermented Chardonnay
CARNEROS
Scribe Winery
The winery–founded in 2007 on a property that pioneered pre-prohibition Sonoma Valley winemaking–is managed by fourth-generation California farmers and brothers, Andrew and Adam Mariani. Andrew and Adam believe that the best wines are a result of a healthy relationship between man and nature, and that a vineyard managed in harmony with the greater ecosystem results in more site-specific wines that represent a sense of time and place. When vinified with non-interventionist methods, the result is a distinct wine that faithfully reflects what the vineyard naturally expresses.
2016
Moorooduc Estate Pinot Noir
MORNINGTON PENINSULA
VICTORIA, AUSTRALIA
Moorooduc Estate
Established in 1982 by Richard and Jill McIntyre, Moorooduc Estate is a small, family run wine business that has developed an enviable reputation for complex and food friendly wines. All the wines are made on site in our rammed earth winery. From a very modest 20 tonne winery set up in 1987, we now have a more sophisticated facility with a small but high quality Bucher press and an excellent Vaslin – Bucher destemmer. Since 2006 we have had the facility to chill fruit in a refrigerated shipping container which has been particularly beneficial with the warmer climate and earlier vintages we have been experiencing over recent years. In the winery, the emphasis is on gentle winemaking methods with some quality control where we believe this is important.
Moorooduc is a founding winery on the cool-climate Mornington Peninsula at the very southern tip of the mainland (heading toward Antarctica), 1.5 hours south of Melbourne. Planted in 1983 and family owned and run, Richard, his wife Jill, and daughter Kate (MW), focus on single site Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Organically dry-farmed, all wild yeast, no fining or filtration. They’ve always worked with the same three vineyards (their own, their viticulturalist’s, and one leased from family friends). Door-opener wines for fine dining.
2016
Lieu Dit Malbec
SANTA YNEZ VALLEY
CENTRAL COAST
Lieu Dit
Lieu Dit is a partnership of longtime friends Eric Railsback and Justin Willett. The two met in Santa Barbara while Eric was finishing college and Justin was just beginning his career in winemaking. The two were among a small group of young winemakers and restaurateurs in Santa Barbara unified by a common interest in wine and all its mysteries.
After countless bottles shared together and many trips to France, Railsback and Willett decided to found Lieu Dit in 2011 and focus it solely in the varieties indigenous to the Loire Valley, now grown in Santa Barbara County. The varied micro-climates and marine based soils of Santa Barbara County are ideally suited to this set of grapes. Lieu Dit centers on Sauvignon Blanc and more limited bottlings of Chenin Blanc, Cabernet Franc and Rose and produces around 2500 cases annually. Each vintage, the quest for purity, elegance, and balance in every wine is paramount.
2018
Failla Syrah, Hudson Vineyard
NAPA VALLEY
Hudson Vineyard
Ehren Jordan fell in love with wine while working in a wine shop to put himself through school- post graduation he managed to score a job as a floor sommelier in Aspen allowing his early 20’s self to drink great wines while keeping up on the slopes! While working in Aspen he worked alongside two Napa Natives and after the season was over, he followed them back to the valley. He worked as a harvest intern and cellar rat until finally working his way on a winemaking team- taking this energy and passion he made wine all over the valley working with Helen Turley for the first time over 20 years ago and he continues to make wine for them today- he calls it his “day job”!
This Syrah from Ehren is sourced from one of the most incredible Syrah sources in Central California, Hudson Ranch in Carneros. Lee Hudson is owner and proprietor (also a Texas Native) and his fruit is sourced by wineries such as Rombauer, Staglin, Dave Ramey, Cakebread, and the list goes on and on.
Ehren and grape grower Lee Hudson go way back - all the way back to Ehren's days at Neyers where he made Chardonnay, Syrah, and Grenache from this esteemed southwestern Napa Valley Site. The vineyard sits pretty on a 2000 acre ranch that Lee purchased in 1979 and slowly developed into one of Napa Valley's most recognizable vineyard names. Lee is also known for producing gigantic pumpkins every Fall and displaying them at Napa's Oxbow Market! This close association has allowed Failla to enjoy vineyard-designate status from Hudson since 2010 with inaugural releases of both Chardonnay and Syrah.
Failla’s Syrah block comes from a distinctly different parcel than the Chardonnay. Block 3 is planted on the adjacent, expanded Henry Road property, slightly further north and nestled in a valley between steep hillsides, protecting it from the prevailing northwestern-moving Carneros winds.
Planted in 1997 on Haire series soil, the Syrah is exposed to cool nights and moderately warm days, providing a long growing season and even ripening. Despite being so far inland, there has even been evidence of sea creature fossils found in the rocks scattered throughout the vineyard.
A wonderful foil to our cooler climate Estate Vineyard, the Hudson Syrah is similarly vinified on 100% whole clusters and is treated to human-powered punchdowns - aka foot treading - during harvest. Aging in mostly used French oak barrels allows for the distinctive floral, spice and savory aromas to balance the naturally rugged and robust palate.
In case you missed it, here's the recording from our October Virtual tasting.
2018
Santo Wines "ASPA" Assyrtiko
SANTORINI
Santo Wines
The Union of Santorini Cooperatives, Santo Wines was founded in 1947. Today, it consists of the largest organization of the island representing all the cultivators and counting 1.200 active members.
As a result of one of the greatest volcanic eruptions of all time, Santorini’s strong agricultural tradition is rooted in its soil which has a unique texture and includes lava, volcanic ash and pumice stone. This special composition yields products of distinctive profile and works as a natural shield from diseases. The vineyard in Santorini is self-rooted as it was never affected by phylloxera, and is one of the most ancient in the world with a 3,500-year history.
Plants on Santorini are not irrigated artificially and rainfall is rare on the island. Therefore, the watering comes from the natural humidity and the sea mist which is absorbed by the volcanic soil, providing the necessary hydration. This method, known as dry farming, results in a low-yield production.
From sowing and pruning to harvesting, all of the work in the fields is done by hand. In areas of severe slope, the farmers have created terraces, built with lava stones, known as “pezoules” in order to provide easier access to the vineyards, to facilitate the cultivation and to maximize their capacity to absorb rain water. In the vineyards, the vintners have invented a distinct way of training the vines, called “kouloura”. The vines are kept close to the ground and are given a spiral, basket shape that anchors the grapes and protects them from the strong winds.
75% Assyrtiko, 15% Athiri and 10% Aidani grown in volcanic soils and aged in French barrels. Vines are grown on their own rootstock and are trained in the traditional basket style to protect from wind and conserve water.
2017
A.F. Gros Vosne-Romanee "Les Chalandins"
burgundy
Domaine A-F. Gros
Domaine A-F. Gros is a 10-hectare estate of vineyards situated in both the Côte-de-Beaune and the Côte-de-Nuits. In 1988, Anne-Francoise Gros, one of Jean Gros’ three children showed the wine world her incredible ability to grow the estate holdings from 3 ha to 10 ha and to also become one of the greatest domaines in all of Burgundy.
Anne-Françoise Gros, originally of Vosne-Romanée, is married to François Parent of Pommard. The domaine consists of Anne-Françoise’s share of Domaine Jean Gros, additional wines in and around Vosne-Romanée which she has bought or leased, and her husband’s share of Domaine Parent.
Anne-Francoise has handed the reins to two of her three children, Caroline and Mathias. The talented young winemaker, Mathias Parent, possesses one of the most distinguished pedigrees in Burgundy. Through his father’s line, he is descended from 13 generations of Burgundians, including Étienne Parent, who supplied wine to Thomas Jefferson. Through his mother, Anne-Françoise Gros (daughter of Jean Gros), Mathias traces his roots to the storied Louis Gros in the early 19th century. Mathias shares management of the domaine with his sister, Caroline Parent. The Domaine today includes vineyards, mostly Pinot Noir, inherited through both lines of the family.
Les Chalandins is the smallest parcel in Vosne, just below Maizieres at the northern tip of the Village. It’s pure pedigree.
2018
Las Jaras Wines "Sweet Berry Wine"
WILLAMETTE VALLEY
Las Jaras Wines
We are so excited to share the 2018 Sweet Berry Wine with you! Las Jaras Wines is from the dynamic duo behind the very hilarious “Tim & Eric Awesome Show!”. Now they make wines of amazing freshness and delicious expression. Whereas we usually can’t even get enough of this to offer out, the pandemic has made it possible for us to include this gem of a wine! Sourcing from only old vines and with the most random, yet delicious blend of varietals, we love this wine and had to share. As Dr. Steve Brule would say, “for your health!”
54% Carignan | 28% Zinfandel | 12% Charbono | 3% Cabernet Sauvignon | 3% Valdiguie Old Vines | Mendocino County
This was a long, cool vintage, which resulted in a nuanced, refined wine that will age wonderfully. It’s perfect for long, autumn evenings with friends—grab a warm blanket, start a fire, and watch as the flames illuminate the beautiful, deep ruby wine inside your glass. As the days grow shorter and colder, you’ll find even more occasions to pop open a bottle: holiday dinners, apres-ski at the lodge, New Years Eve.
2015
Domaine de Pallus "Les Pensees de Pallus"
CHINON
Domain de Pallus
Bertrand Sourdais began his quest in the summer of 2003, Trained at the University of Bordeaux, Bertrand had been drawn to Atauta (Spain) by its ancient, ungrafted vines of unique local Tempranillo clones. While achieving stardom in Spain, Bertrand remained passionate for his native Chinon, and for its emblematic variety, Cabernet Franc. And so it was inevitable that he would someday apply his gifts at his family’s estate, Domaine de Pallus, in the appellation’s heart in Cravant-les-Côteaux. With his fathers nearing retirement from the family estate. Bertrand has worked in the vineyards to create harmony and balance. As at Atauta, he is working tirelessly to find the potential of each vine. And while biodynamics are an important tool for many Loire Valley growers, they are merely a starting point for Bertrand to set his vineyards on the right path. Of course, he has completely rethought the winemaking process. He is employing an extended maceration—up to an astonishing thirty days—to capture the “true” personality of Chinon. Elévage is similarly long and gentle—primarily in second passage barrels from elite Bordeaux estates. The wines are handled less, and bottled later, than almost any others in Chinon.
Since the debut 2004 vintage, Les Pensées has grown in stature with each passing vintage. It is assembled from parcels on several different soil types, with the aim to define “Chinon” in a glass. It reveals classic Loire Valley Cabernet Franc aromas and flavors, but with remarkable precision and the kind of textural depth rarely seen in the appellation.
In case you missed it, here's the recording from our September Virtual tasting.
NV
A.R. Lenoble Intense M15
Champagne
AR Lenoble
AR Lenoble is one of the rare houses in Champagne that has remained 100% family-owned since its foundation. Armand-Raphaël Graser, a native of Alsace, arrived in Champagne in 1915 in the middle of the first world war. He purchased a house that was built in 1772 in the village of Damery, located between Epernay and Hautvillers, and starting making champagne there in 1920. Anne and Antoine Malassagne, sister and brother, are the great-grandchildren of founder Armand-Raphaël Graser. Anne took over from her father in 1993 and was joined by her brother Antoine in 1996.
AR Lenoble has always been 100% independent since it has founded in 1920, nearly 100 years ago!
Not a single investor or shareholder of any kind has ever been involved in the business. This enables AR Lenoble to guarantee complete stability and coherency in the strategy of the house.
2016
Craven
Chenin Blanc
South AFrica
Craven Wines
Our story begins back in 2007 while both 'dragging hose' in Sonoma, California, for the harvest season. A chance meeting between an Aussie and a South African has eventually turned into Craven Wines. After both having taken to the text books at our respective universities, we decided to hit the road, see lots of things, work in lots of places and try and learn as much as possible from this massive wine world. Since meeting we have both been on a similar journey to try and find exactly what we wanted to do. Luckily enough, we had very similar ideas. So back in 2011 we moved to Stellenbosch, South Africa, a place we both have an affinity for. We both feel Stellenbosch has such an amazing array of sites and terroir, and that it is perfect for what we want to do. Which is make site-specific, honest wines. Let the grapes do the talking....
Their first Chenin Blanc, sourced from early-picked, 35-year-old radial bush vines on the weathered granite soils of Polkadraai’s Karibib Vineyard. Grapes are whole-bunch pressed to neutral 500L barrels, and after a five month wild ferment and natural MLF, it was left on the lees for four more months before racking.
2017
La Caccia di San Giovanni Toscana IGT
TUSCANY, ITALY
La Caccia
Founder of Dallas-based private equity real estate investment firm, Macfarlan Capital Partners, Dean Mcfarlan, his wife Tawney, and Fiona and Hal Barnett have been friends for four decades. When the opportunity to buy land in Tuscany presented itself in 2016, the group - all passionate about Italian wine - began exploring the possibility of producing a Super Tuscan blend from the vineyards on the property, about 20 miles east of Siena.
After many months of studying the soils, meeting with Tuscan growers and winemakers and various consultants, they decided to take the plunge. David Tate, winemaker at Barnett for nearly 15 years, agreed to join in the partnership and in the fall of 2017 the first vintage of La Caccia was harvested. The result is a powerful, yet finessed wine that combines the distinctiveness of Tuscan fruit with winemaking techniques that are Californian.
La Caccia translates to “the hunt” in Italian, a nod to the historical past of the estate which dates back to the 10th century. The image on the front label depicts a hunting blind that still stands on the property. This blind is now surrounded by vineyards that produce this elegant Super Tuscan.
2017
Favia "Carbone" Red Wine
NAPA VALLEY
Favia Wines
Favia Wines started in 2003, amidst myriad responsibilities at Napa’s most lauded wineries and vineyards. After tutelage in the cellars of John Kongsgaard and Cathy Corison, Annie dedicated nearly a dozen years to hands in hallowed soils as a viticulturist under David Abreu. Andy, meanwhile, can draw a map of the valley using his résumé as a legend. To start, his voice has echoed in the cellars of Screaming Eagle, Ovid, and Dalla Valle. Their commitment to Coombsville, however, began first with a family home more than a decade ago. In alignment with biodynamic principles, they devoted much of their first property to the production of food: fruit trees, vegetables, honey, eggs. And, finally, Annie planted an acre of dry-farmed Sauvignon Blanc – a vineyard of her own. But Favia Wines was still without a home.
The historic Carbone property, now 6.5 acres along Coombsville Road, then presented Annie and Andy the opportunity to sharpen their vision for Favia Wines with the privilege to own both a winery and home in Coombsville. Using a trove of historical documents and testimony from descendants of Antonio Carbone, they embarked on a full restoration of the original residence – and now live above their resting wine barrels. The historical documents have taken Annie and Andy into the fields, too, with comprehensive logs of the Carbone’s produce. In addition to the existing two acre walnut orchard, they have planted fruit trees, and an olive grove. But their engagement with the property extends beyond providing sustenance – and further back to before the arrival of the Carbones. The property is bisected by Witweather creek, which is all but dry by late spring. Always with water consciousness at the forefront of their decisions, the Favia-Ericksons have restored the local ecology with native plants, many of which historically provided utility to indigenous people. As relentless students, their approach to the vineyard and its surrounding lands is holistic. In service of “the whole household of nature,” they ask, how will seemingly localized decisions ultimately affect the vineyard, and further out, the appellation, and yet further, the valley and the Bay Area?
In case you missed it, here's the recording from our August Virtual tasting.
Who's Making These Great Selections?
Sommelier
Clare Gillette
Clare Gillette joined Classic in 2017 as our Director of Wine Sales to manage and grow the wine merchants operations for all three of our Classic locations. Before moving to Texas, Clare spent a significant time in the wine importing and distribution side of the business working with some of the most sought out, collector-worthy wineries and portfolios from all over the world. It was during college that she caught the wine bug, leading her to graduate with a Viticulture & Enology degree and to pursue Sommelier studies.
From Willamette to Burgundy, the Rhone Valley to Napa, or Piedmont to Champagne, Clare has travelled to meet winemakers and visit iconic vineyards as a forever student of the vine. Her expertise and relationships in the wine industry have been integral in elevating our Classic wine community and providing a higher level of value and service to you as our client.
Sommelier
Chester Cox
Chester brings over 25 years of experience in the hospitality industry. Chester has worked in Fort Worth since 2003 where he spent 11 years as a sommelier at Del Frisco’s. That experience and level of customer service led Chester to spend the next handful of years creating experiences and finding hard-to-get wines for clients at Kent & Co. Wines and Ellerbe Fine Foods. During this time he also started a cellar management business that allowed him to organize, manage and stock cellars from 200 to 90,000 bottles.
As his consecutive, five-time award of "Fort Worth’s Best Wine Expert" by Fort Worth Magazine can attest to, Chester's level of expertise combined with years of concierge style customer service will help elevate your experience as a client with us.